Six Pointed Star Inlay

[McClurch]

I'm trying to do a simple six pointed star inlay. Both of my files use the same dimension of stars to create the toolpaths, but once ran through the CNC - they do not fit! It seems that the pocket it is not being cut far enough into the points of the stars - basically needs to cut another cutter width into the pocket corners to create a 1/8th inch round corner. So obviously I'm using a 1/8 inch up-spiral bit. The inside corners and angles are all right on. Anyways, thanks for your help! Both of the files used for this are attached.

[BobA]

One thing I see not correct in the female pocket inlay is you did not put anything in the pocket allowance.

I put .015" in my first inlay while inlaying my name and it came out perfect.

Also I Used one VCarve drawing, Created a male inlay and female tool path in same program. I changed wood between running tool paths using same tool for both. I cut both material the same size.One thing has worked for me is placing a spoiler board underneath the male wood. I program the male inlay .010 to 020" less than material thickness and if not cut out I make a small pass on planer until inlay becomes loose. I only input an allowance on female tool path.

I hope this works for you. I will try to edit and run your program later this evening or tomorrow.

Good Luck,
Bob

[Bob]

I use the following method for inlays: http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=n ... -+Rapid%22
It has been an easy way to get a clean inlay.
Bob

[JerryBurks]

Thanks for the link! Got to try this.
Any recommendation for V-bit angle? I guess 60 degrees may give a more accurate edge?
Would normal wood glue work as well or better than the super glue?
I am a bit concerned the super glue may set immediately and not allow adjustment.

[BobA]

Thanks Bob , I will check it out. I am all for making it easier.

I ran the program with the modifications I had mentioned above. I used a .015 allowance in the Female pocket and I think it came out very good.

Bob

[Bob]

I use regular Titebond III for glue. And, a 60 degree bit. I also just resaw to seperate the inlay material from the wood base. The hardest part is waiting for the glue to dry.
I also use the following settings: For cutting the pocket I use the following setting...start depth= 0.0, flat depth = 0.1", The inlay portion... start depth = 0.07, flat depth = 0.09. Just try these settings on something small at first to see if it works for you.
Bob

[Bob]

Here are some pictures to help illustrate the inlay process I use:
These are drink coasters.

The sample on the left is the pattern cut into the cherry base piece, and the inlay cut into black walnut. (Those holes drilled into the pieces are not needed. I was playing with the idea of creating embossed business cards...a different story.)
The second shows the walnut inlay scrap re-sawed from the cherry base after the glue has dried.
The third sample shows the completed inlay after sanding and an application of oil finish.

I hope this makes the process clearer.

Bob

[McClurch]

Thanks a lot for the replies everyone. BobA, I put in a pocket tolerance after I posted the question and got it pretty close. I'll let you guys know how It turns out today once I modify all of it. Thanks again

[CNCWorks]

Hi Bob,

We have a video tutorial explaining how to use VCarve Pro / Aspire
to design and toolpath V-Inlay projects.

See > http://www.vectric.org/video/tips/v-inlay/V-Inlay.html

I hope this might be useful.

Tony

[BobA]

Where are you Bob? I have been working on the humming bird inlay for two days. I first tried your way. then I tried the Vectric video instructions and last I tried the way the writeup instructed. In all trials I cannot go into the pocket deep enough. As per the writeup the male inlay should have went in .200". Clamping the inlay to the pocket at the very most .060. I have come close but when I go nto finish sand some of the inlay peels out. Write up instruction lead me to believe I should have went in .200"

What am I doing wrong. The inlay gadget works okay for me and I am sure this will work but not the way I am doing. It appears to me that the small detail won't let me penetrate any deeper. I have tried a 60 degree and 90 V Carve tool. I have tried slowing the feed, rerunning the programs two times.

Bob