HD 510 Stalls and Jumps
Moderators: al wolford, sbk, Bob, Kayvon
HD 510 Stalls and Jumps
While making a 1-1/2" profile cut with a half inch bit my router will stall and then my HD510 will jump out of the profile cut 1/4" or so tearing into the side of the cut. I'm only making 3/16" depth passes so I'm not sure what the issue is. Any ideas?
Re: HD 510 Stalls and Jumps
Some basic info is needed:
Speed? =
Feed? =
Tool Type? = (up cut, down cut, straight flute, 2,3, 4 flute, etc?)
Router model? =
Material? =
Speed? =
Feed? =
Tool Type? = (up cut, down cut, straight flute, 2,3, 4 flute, etc?)
Router model? =
Material? =
Re: HD 510 Stalls and Jumps
Add:
How far is the bit extended beyond the collet?
Is the collet properly tightened?
Are all bolts properly tightened on the router clamp, and on the gantry and the rest of the machine?
Are the hold down clamps on your material tight and positioned properly?
Bob
How far is the bit extended beyond the collet?
Is the collet properly tightened?
Are all bolts properly tightened on the router clamp, and on the gantry and the rest of the machine?
Are the hold down clamps on your material tight and positioned properly?
Bob
"Focus"
Antonie Van Leeuwenhoek (Developer of the microscope.)
Antonie Van Leeuwenhoek (Developer of the microscope.)
Re: HD 510 Stalls and Jumps
Just got back into town and saw your questions.
I had taken off my water cooled spindle and mounted a Bosch 1617 and had my speed set at 18,000. I was using a 1/2" diameter 2 flute Whiteside straight bit (1072). The bit has a 2" cutting length which is why I went to a router with a 1/2" shank instead of the spindle. My feed rate was the recommended by Whiteside at 300in/min. The material I was using was a 1.875 thick Red Cherry. In answer to Bobs question the bit was firmly into the collet and did not extend out which is why I went to the router and the size bit I did so that I could get my desired depth. Everything was tight on the machine and I had actually used a wider piece so that I could screw it down into my spoil board to avoid any chance of inadvertent movement. I was approximately 1-3/8" deep of a 1-5/8" cut when this occurred.
I had taken off my water cooled spindle and mounted a Bosch 1617 and had my speed set at 18,000. I was using a 1/2" diameter 2 flute Whiteside straight bit (1072). The bit has a 2" cutting length which is why I went to a router with a 1/2" shank instead of the spindle. My feed rate was the recommended by Whiteside at 300in/min. The material I was using was a 1.875 thick Red Cherry. In answer to Bobs question the bit was firmly into the collet and did not extend out which is why I went to the router and the size bit I did so that I could get my desired depth. Everything was tight on the machine and I had actually used a wider piece so that I could screw it down into my spoil board to avoid any chance of inadvertent movement. I was approximately 1-3/8" deep of a 1-5/8" cut when this occurred.
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markjonesranger
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Re: HD 510 Stalls and Jumps
Any hoses, cords or pieces of cut off that got jambed? I have had all 3 throw my axis off. What did you find out?
Re: HD 510 Stalls and Jumps
According to Nextwave...
"The HD5 gantry system features enhanced performance thanks to linear guides, a sturdy aluminum router mount and rigid steel-encased legs. Plus, you get a clean look courtesy of Z-axis motor wires that run through a channel in the leg."
Well, the steel encasing the legs is rigid, not in the right axis, but you know, marketing. Also the clean look is a giant cut for wires in the plastic of the left hand leg.
Simply put, the Shark HD510/520 aren't rigid enough to make that cut as you were doing it.
200ipm is as fast as it will go and that is more of a rapid than a feed.
The gantry uprights are plastic, HDPE or Acetyl or Nylon or something similar. There is no rigidity. The stepper motors aren't strong enough to hold position if you start to chatter in a deep cut, the machine will set-up an oscillation between the gantry and the tool bit, bouncing back in forth in the groove. Most of the down-force holding the tool in the cut is the weight of the z-axis assembly, with the lack of rigidity it's easy to "float" the tool above the intended cutting position (it will literally be floating on the cheap plastic nuts on the lead screws) add some machine jiggle and walla, ruined project.
These are very light duty hobby machines, I expected more but ultimately got what I paid for as well.
This solution is time consuming but it work for me for deep cuts.
If you need a 1/2" wide slot cut that deep, use a 3/8" tool if you can. If you have to use the 1/2" tool you'll need to over cut, do it in multiple passes. No more than 1x tool diameter deep. If your going 1.500" deep. Set up (6) profile cuts. Yes SIX, OR MORE as needed adjusting for tool diameter and total depth of cut.
1a) cut start 0.000", depth of cut .500, speed about 9,000-12,000, 100IPM, pass depth 0.125", stock to leave 0.000"
1b) cut start 0.000", depth of cut .500, same speed, same feed, pass depth 0.500", stock to leave 0.010"
2a) cut start 0.500", depth of cut .500, speed about 9,000-12,000, 100IPM, pass depth 0.125", stock to leave 0.000"
2b) cut start 0.500", depth of cut .500, same speed, same feed, pass depth 0.500", stock to leave 0.010"
etc....
Setting the stock to leave to 0.010" will add some clearance in the slot, meaning the tool will never be engaged in the material on both side of the cut for more that 0.500" deep. This will reduce the tendency of the tool to start chattering, floating, jumping about and overpowering the stepper's holding torque and machine rigidity.
I went through this making the front baffle for a subwoofer. the front baffle was 2.383" thick, 3/4" MDF sandwiched between two layers for 19mm Baltic Birch with one side clad in 1/8" cherry.
Took hours to do what a real router could do in just a few min.
Good luck.
"The HD5 gantry system features enhanced performance thanks to linear guides, a sturdy aluminum router mount and rigid steel-encased legs. Plus, you get a clean look courtesy of Z-axis motor wires that run through a channel in the leg."
Well, the steel encasing the legs is rigid, not in the right axis, but you know, marketing. Also the clean look is a giant cut for wires in the plastic of the left hand leg.
Simply put, the Shark HD510/520 aren't rigid enough to make that cut as you were doing it.
200ipm is as fast as it will go and that is more of a rapid than a feed.
The gantry uprights are plastic, HDPE or Acetyl or Nylon or something similar. There is no rigidity. The stepper motors aren't strong enough to hold position if you start to chatter in a deep cut, the machine will set-up an oscillation between the gantry and the tool bit, bouncing back in forth in the groove. Most of the down-force holding the tool in the cut is the weight of the z-axis assembly, with the lack of rigidity it's easy to "float" the tool above the intended cutting position (it will literally be floating on the cheap plastic nuts on the lead screws) add some machine jiggle and walla, ruined project.
These are very light duty hobby machines, I expected more but ultimately got what I paid for as well.
This solution is time consuming but it work for me for deep cuts.
If you need a 1/2" wide slot cut that deep, use a 3/8" tool if you can. If you have to use the 1/2" tool you'll need to over cut, do it in multiple passes. No more than 1x tool diameter deep. If your going 1.500" deep. Set up (6) profile cuts. Yes SIX, OR MORE as needed adjusting for tool diameter and total depth of cut.
1a) cut start 0.000", depth of cut .500, speed about 9,000-12,000, 100IPM, pass depth 0.125", stock to leave 0.000"
1b) cut start 0.000", depth of cut .500, same speed, same feed, pass depth 0.500", stock to leave 0.010"
2a) cut start 0.500", depth of cut .500, speed about 9,000-12,000, 100IPM, pass depth 0.125", stock to leave 0.000"
2b) cut start 0.500", depth of cut .500, same speed, same feed, pass depth 0.500", stock to leave 0.010"
etc....
Setting the stock to leave to 0.010" will add some clearance in the slot, meaning the tool will never be engaged in the material on both side of the cut for more that 0.500" deep. This will reduce the tendency of the tool to start chattering, floating, jumping about and overpowering the stepper's holding torque and machine rigidity.
I went through this making the front baffle for a subwoofer. the front baffle was 2.383" thick, 3/4" MDF sandwiched between two layers for 19mm Baltic Birch with one side clad in 1/8" cherry.
Took hours to do what a real router could do in just a few min.
Good luck.