setting Speed

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DougE
Posts: 43
Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2012 12:37 pm

setting Speed

Post by DougE »

I'm running a bunch of styrofoam at the machine and wondering if I can increase my cutting speeds.

The files are primarily 3d and created with Cut3d.

Right now I am running a mix of 2 and 4 flute ball nose cutters.

In the control panel I have FRO set at 100 and speed to fastest.

I've not really changed any of the parameters in the tool database, except perhaps slight increase/decrease in stepover values.

If I change the 'feed rate' in the tool database to 200% (currently at 100%) can I expect a net gain (decrease in cutting time) ?

I am 90% confident that the material and cutters can handle twice the rate they are working at. (I will run a few tests of course.. once I hear from all of you)

I'm not sure if the Shark can handle this or not (??) Or if it is going to shake an shimmy like it's experiencing a 9.5 earthquake.

Your help,input,time and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

DougE
*shark pro hd

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NewAgent45
Posts: 230
Joined: Sun Sep 08, 2013 8:29 am
Location: Edgewater, Florida, USA

Re: setting Speed

Post by NewAgent45 »

Doug,

I just started working with foam-board myself and find in most cases you can increase the pass depth and feed rates. I have been running the feed rates as fast as it will go with no issues with bits up to 1/2". As I recall the Shark controller limits you to 200 ipm, even if you enter higher feed rates, I hope someone else on the forum can confirm this. With hardwoods I am very conservative with pass depths and use a value of 25 - 30% of bit diameter. with foam board I use 50 - 100%. I run a little faster spindle speeds to and adjust a little on the run based on sound and cut. I never run max spindle speed as you are asking for premature bearing failure. Woodworking routers aren't designed to run all day.

I should mention I have been using common low density foam board that is found in the home centers. See my Skull-Art post for more information. http://www.cncsharktalk.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4752 You may find you have to limit feed rates and pass depth with high density material. I have looked at Professional Sign foam board but so far I'm satisfied with the cheap stuff on my projects. In my Skull-Art post I mention some tricks I learned working with the cheap stuff.

Hope this helps!

,,, Rod

DougE
Posts: 43
Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2012 12:37 pm

Re: setting Speed

Post by DougE »

Yeah,... I read through most everything (I think). I was hoping I maybe missed something to gain more speed.

Maybe someone has a g-code work-around (shrug)

Read through your skull post,... thank you for the info and link. (cool stuff) What did you paint your styrofoam with ? I'm just curious. What I am cutting is not painted but silicone sealed. Was that the low density (large sized styrofoam ball-like particles) that you used ? I have not tried running any of that and might give it a shot one day (miles less expensive than high density closed cell stuff)

Thank you for your time and input.

DougE

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NewAgent45
Posts: 230
Joined: Sun Sep 08, 2013 8:29 am
Location: Edgewater, Florida, USA

Re: setting Speed

Post by NewAgent45 »

Doug,

I don't believe you will find modifying the G-code the answer to speeding the feed rates. I have done a little G-code editing. As I under stand the limits are coded into to the controller firmware which is proprietary to NWA.

The type of foam board I'm using is available in most lumberyards and home centers and manufactured by Dow (Blue) and DuPont (Pink). My local supplier carries the Dow Blue Foam Board in 2" thick and I think 3/4" or 1" thick. The closed cells are fairly small in this material. This seems to work well yielding a porous surface that simulates bone well. I think you can see this in my skull art if you zoom in on the picture.

With foam board you are best using all water base paint. With my Skull Art I hand painted everything starting with regular latex primer and then the grey background is regular inside latex color with a brush. The black border was rolled in with a small 3" wide roller. I don't use a roller pan. I use a scrape piece of 1" wood brush some paint on the wood and then fill the roller only in the center section of the roller by rolling in on the wood strip. This give you a lot of control when applying the paint only to the surface. I used this technique to roll the black on the edge and to the face that looks like a frame. The rest of the colors were painted with art brushes with Acrylic Paint.

Now I have down a couple signs Where I used a commercial airless sprayer to paint the primer and background color.

Here is a link to the first sign I made using the airless sprayer for the primer and background and I used the roller technique for the raised letters.

http://forum.vectric.com/viewtopic.php? ... 32#p167532

I think this answers your questions.

Have a nice evening .... Rod0

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