Biting the bullet

[sk8nmike]

OK, so I'm ready to get a Shark anyone have a reason to to get the Pro plus HD over the Pro plus?

Also I see that there is an on board USB interface, can you load files directly into the Shark or will I need a computer attached also?

[Eagle55]

Having bit the bullet a couple of months back maybe I can help with part of the questions. I almost stumbled onto the HD model versus the others, but even before it came I was glad I did. Along with the larger carving area (which the ProPlus pretty much has) it also has the greater height capabilities for larger and thicker projects. All in all not the best reasons for going to the HD, however from what I can gather it has better support for the guides and a stronger overall build than its predecessor. I always hate to buy too small or too cheaply, and believe for me the HD was the right way to go. The extra price tag is not just for the better machine but you also get the Vector Art sampler pack along with Cut 3d, which both do not come with the ProPlus (I think I'm right on this). So all in all you are not paying as much more for the better designed machine as the price tag indicates.

The second issue I am going to shoot from the hip on because I am not really technically knowledgeable to give you a sure answer. Even though it has a USB interface and I think you are loading the g-code into the SD rom in the controller box, I am thinking that it is not possible to carve without a computer attached. From what I see even thought the g-code is in the unit, all of the control of the unit is via the computer attached to it. I don't see any other way to use it. Personally, I had just moved up to another laptop and had a netbook that I used as a "couch machine" that was going to do less duty, and it has made a perfect shop computer teamed up with a remote usb numeric keypad. It doesn't have to stay in the shop if I have other tasks for it, but I leave it there much of the time.

If you are inclined to this type of wood working, I think you are going to love the HD Shark, I know I have.

Roger

[jeb2cav]

Roger covered that well. The SD card in the Shark Control Box is the electronic's 'RAM' - it is not being used like an SD card in a camera. So, a computer connection is required during operation.

To amplify on Roger's comment on HD over ProPlus - if you're making that kind of investment, the extra $200 is a no brainer if you're already thinking that you're going to purchase the ProPlus at a minimum. The HD has an entirely different support system for each of the 3 axis when compared to the ProPlus. You can also use a heavier duty router with the HD. With the ProPlus you can only use the Colt, DeWalt or other type trim router. While those work well (for me anyway), I certainly can envision how it would be better with an HD.

[rungemach]

I would venture to say that there are a lot of Shark Pro users who would gladly pay the 200 dollars to have the pro HD over their current model.

My Shark pro dates back to 2006, and the mechanical design has not changed appreciably in all those years. The HD model seems to be an effort to remedy the design deficiency of the unsupported bearings, while adding some extra Z travel, and allowing larger routers to be used. I would regard the non HD models as soon to be obsolete, given the small price difference. From what have seen posted, it may be likely that the long awaited 4th axis may require a HD level machine. It would be good for Tim to comment on this. A picture I saw of the 4th axis had the router mounted with the bit facing horizontally, which would seem to be an issue of the old style gantry.

If you don't think you need any of the HD improvements, you will at some point be glad you got them after the initial "cnc wow factor" wears off and you want to do more accurate work. If you fit one of the smaller routers, you most likely will not have issues with the machine flexing too much as the router will determine how aggressive you can get with cutting.

Bob

[lanceputnam]

My HD was just dropped off yesterday. After two hours of unpacking and vacuuming up peanuts I was powering up the unit and within 4 hours of it being dropped off I had v-carved my companies logo into a peice of scrap 6x6. Im not sure what they are doing production wise that is different from the older models but I was amazed in the quality that this thing was capable of laying down with no adjustments whatsoever. I have not owned one of the lesser models but I am very very glad I paid the extra 200 to get the HD. Its built like a tank and the interface is so easy to use and setup its mind blowing. I will be posting pics of my setup later today along with my feedback on the setup process.

[sk8nmike]

Have couple more questions.

How does the Shark handle bit changes in the middle of a carve, say going from a 30 deg V-bit to a 3/32 ball end mill? then continuing the carve.

And what about restarting a carve after a shut down (power outage, got tired and took a break)? Does it pick up where it left off, or do I have to spend hours realigning it?

[lanceputnam]

Each toolpath is created individually and saved as such. So if you have a complex design, say some signage for example, which uses 3 different tools to create you will have atleast 3 separate saved tool path files which you will load and run individually in the basic control panel. I.E: for a cut out sign with lettering and pocketing, you will design it and then save each of the three individual tool paths separately, pocketing, letting, and then the last one would be the cut out with tabs. Each one of those tools paths will be loaded a run one at a time. So when the first one finishes, you will do the tool change, load the new tool path file, re-zero to your home on the sign and then run the second tool path file. Then you will repeat the process for all the remaining tool paths.

As far as the power outage, I have a UPS 1500 that will run my whole setup- shark and computer for over an hour so I dont have any issues. Some of the other guys can chime in but I would assume that if the power went out you could essentially zero it again to the same start point and run the whole program all over again. This would essentially just be doing an "air cut" until it caught up to where you left off. Im sure there has to be some way to start a file from the middle of the code but I dont know how.

Hope this helps.

[Eagle55]

First thought when changing bit in the middle of the carve is to turn the router off HA HA HA my jokes kill me sometimes. Seriously though, the method stated previously was correct. Cut all the various g-code files for one bit then change and re-zero Z with the new bit and cut the files using that bit.

Power outages are best handle with the UPS as mention (thats what I plan to do as soon as money is available) but as far as "man-made breaks go, you can handle one of several way. 1st one is going to be well disputed and I agree with the disputes but it is done by more than admit it. Get the carve started and when you see that it is going as you expected it to, go and let it work and take your ear protection off. I do this all the time except maybe when I am doing something new and want to be double sure it is working as I thought it would. There is always the possibility that something could go wrong but then it could go wrong with you standing there and its possible that you couldn't have stopped what damage it did even if you were there. Confidence and careful programming will keep accidents to a minimum and you will know when its time to walk away (if ever). I know there have been some occurrences reported from unattended carving, but things sometimes happen... possibly the UPS might prevent some burps in the carving operations that quick power surges might create. The other method is to cut one tools file and take a break with computer and machine still powered up (and at rest). That way you don't loose your X and Y zero and you are going to reset the Z zero anyway with the tool change. You could also hit the pause button and manually turn off the router for a break and come back later and resume. Personally I leave mine unattended while it works. I realize that I may be on here reporting someday of an accident or occurrence that broke a bit or damaged my machine but I have a fair level of confidence that once it begins doing right on a pattern it will continue to do right, especially on tried techniques that have been used over and over.

As far as restarting a carve in the middle, I have no idea but would like to learn if someone explains the technique. I have run files in engraving that I realized only after it cut half of the job that the workpiece had either a thickness issue or the table was not level enough to do the piece right. I have stopped in the middle and shimmed a piece of wood and then started all over again watching it air cut things that had already been cut correctly. I would be interested in learning how to skip forward in a g-code file and begin at a certain point.

Roger

[sk8nmike]

The reason I asked these questions is that I currently use a Cravewright and I can pause the carve and come back later and restart it. As for the bits It will pause and ask for a new bit.

[BobA]

You Can do the same thing with your Shark. Each tool is a separate program (toolpath). Within each toolpath, you can pause, turn your router off and leave your computer and controller on. Then when you are ready to start again, turn your router on and select continue on the Control panel and the program takes off from where you had last paused (stopped).

Bob