Cutting out parts in red oak
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Cutting out parts in red oak
Hello all, I recently just purchased my Shark pro plus a month ago and have been trying to cut parts out of 3/4" red oak. Might there be anybody with some suggestions on this? I have tried using an upcut 1/4" spiral bit and after the first couple passes I start having problems with vibrations and the whole router starts to vibrate or jump up and down. I have tried 1/8" passes and 1/16" passes and either way the same thing. I have also tried a 1/4" 2 flute straight bit however the sawdust ends up getting packed in and the edges turn out sorta messy. I am rather new to this and would greatly appreciate any suggestions.
- CountryWoodCrafts
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Re: Cutting out parts in red oak
Cutting too fast will cause the jumping and chatter. Go into your toolpath and edit the speed. Harder woods require slower speeds . . .
You say you want it done when. LOL
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Re: Cutting out parts in red oak
Yup, I have had to slow the feed speed down to about 15 and using passes of 1/16th to get rid of the chatter. However doesn't going this slow shorten the router bits life due to heat? i'm still trying to figure out the whole feed speed and RPM's. Also is a 1/4" carbide upcut spiral the best to use in this application?
- CountryWoodCrafts
- Posts: 182
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Re: Cutting out parts in red oak
As long as your not charring the wood . . .it should not harm the bit. . .
You say you want it done when. LOL
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Re: Cutting out parts in red oak
Sounds good, Thanks for your input.
Re: Cutting out parts in red oak
I was on the verge of purchasing the shark pro plus until I read these comments. I have a business oportunity to make deer mounts for a company, but that requires cutting 3/4 red oak fairly consistently and quickly. If the machine can't do that, I will need to look elswhere.
Re: Cutting out parts in red oak
Dan, I edge profiled a 1" piece of beech which I believe is harder than red oak. I used a brand new Porter Cable 1/4" solid carbide straight bit and did my passes at 1/8". It took 16 minutes for a 10" X 16" with the ipm set to 10. It did a beautiful job. The Shark places the bit but it is the bit that has to do the cutting. I never had a horsepower issue (yet) with the Bosch Colt, it chops at everything I send it to. I have yet to anything with an enhanced profile like ogee. If you are doing large production then you might consider something that holds a full sized router.Dan Sharp wrote:I was on the verge of purchasing the shark pro plus until I read these comments. I have a business oportunity to make deer mounts for a company, but that requires cutting 3/4 red oak fairly consistently and quickly. If the machine can't do that, I will need to look elswhere.
Re: Cutting out parts in red oak
I use all downcut router bits in oak,birch,walnut,maple, etc. The downcuts hold the wood to the table, doesn't lift up. take a look on my flickr page to see what I have done in oak. http://www.flickr.com/photos/98777704@N ... 907119173/#
Buffalo,NY
"What will matter is not what you bought but what you built; not what you got, but what you gave”
Aspire 11.015, photo vcarve, cnc mako shark extended bed with the new upgraded HD 5 gantry with Led pendent.
"What will matter is not what you bought but what you built; not what you got, but what you gave”
Aspire 11.015, photo vcarve, cnc mako shark extended bed with the new upgraded HD 5 gantry with Led pendent.
Re: Cutting out parts in red oak
One negative comment and you base a business decision off of that? Find me a tool that has no negative comments on it.Dan Sharp wrote:I was on the verge of purchasing the shark pro plus until I read these comments. I have a business oportunity to make deer mounts for a company, but that requires cutting 3/4 red oak fairly consistently and quickly. If the machine can't do that, I will need to look elswhere.
I cut wood a lot harder then oak. No problems yet that I couldn't figure out.
Let's revisit the whole "Hope I die before I get old" Thing.