shark pro router clamp

[Consultingwoodworker]

Here are a few thoughts on the factory router clamp. If yours is cracked, it needs replacing obviously, but if it is not, there is an easy way to keep it in good repair, and that is the proper technique for loosening/tightening the clamp.

You SHOULD NOT be simply loosening or tightening the front bolt. You should ALSO be loosening the vertical bolts that hold the clamp onto the overall router bracket.

If those bolts are not loosened, then when you tighten the front bolt, the circular hole in the clamp is NOT free to close concentricly. It can only move between the first two vertical screws. This weakens the hold on the router since it is only squeezing on part of the circle. It also stresses the clamp plate because you need to over-tighten it because it is gripping improperly.

If you loosen the verticle mounting bolts that hold the clamp to the carriage, then the entire circle of the clamp bracket can open and close, and not just the front section. This will improve the holding power of the bracket and it will last longer. Mine is four hard years old and I never get slipping.

Oh yeah, don't forget to re-tighten the vertical bolts when you finish securing the router!

Ralph

[rungemach]

For what it's worth, IMHO, Hdpe plastic is not a good material for the router clamps as it has a tendency to cold flow under a continuously applied load, and will also crack at lower temps or at stress points.
For me, that means that these clamps will continue to slowly lose their grip, till they must be retightened and further deformed. The cycle repeats until there is no gap left in the clamp or till it cracks.

Trying to keep a router perpendicular to the work surface is also a challenge with the plastic clamps. "Work arounds" can help over the short term, but, IMHO, the root problem remains in the selection of material..

Consultingwoodworker is correct in pointing out that the router should be clamped tightly first and then the bolts that hold it to the machine tightened. regardless of the clamp material. Open up the front hold down holes in the clamp or base if the front holes do not perfectly align to the tightened clamp.

You can "tram" the router with shims between the clamp and the z axis base plate. In the plastic parts, set screws will just press into the material and not hold a setting. Shims will distribute the force over a larger surface area.

A better Z axis base plate would not be a bad idea either, as it has a lot of holes for the router body and the fastening nuts and bolts.

Both the regular and HD models have their weak points regarding the gantry. An aluminum back plate will not help the non HD models much at all. Fully supported bearings will help a lot, and when coupled to the plastic back plate will make a relatively strong gantry. (IMHO, stronger than the stock HD gantry)

The HD attempts to lessen gantry bearing rod flex by tying the bearing rods to the gantry back plate at the center. Unfortunately, the plastic back plate it is fastened to does not strengthen it as much as it could if it were more rigid. (like aluminum or better reinforced by a back beam, like rectangular aluminum tube, full gantry width, directly behind the mounting bolts.)

In either case, a better router mount for either machine is a "must have" as the plastic clamp has several "built in" issues. Since the factory has not yet chosen to do anything on this issue, I hope Sam at Dixie Billet will make these clamps in addition to the HD clamps he is already making.

[Sam]

The clamps for the pro models are now available. A big "thank you" goes out to Bob, and Mike! I did make a design change from the original, but it should not affect performance. As far as cost goes, they are $52 + 5.50 priority USPS shipping. A 1/4-20 allen bolt, and washer are included. The smaller router motor diameter changes among the brands it seems, so I will need to know what router you have, if you decide to purchase a clamp. Most of the payments are made thru PayPal. I email you a PayPal invoice, payment is made, and the clamp ships within a few days. If you should need to pay by check or money order, that would also be fine. Just send me an email, and I will supply the information needed. And of course, comments, questions, ideas, and criticism are always welcomed.
--Sam Clark
business@dixiebillet.com

[ohiococonut]

Unless you can make an aluminum clamp you'll just end up spending more time and money before you eventually buy one of Sam's clamps. I have one and it is a Major improvement.

Thanks again Sam.

[4DThinker]

I agree that aluminum is what should have been the material used for the OEM clamp. My HDPE clamp on my Pro split, and to get it working quickly I installed one cut from 3/4" baltic birch plywood. It has a tight grip on the Colt router with no spinning when I wrencch the bit tight like it used to. Although the wood compressed a little under the bolt heads as I tightened it up I don't see it breaking/splitting ever. I cut a few spares as I had room on the scrap I used. Doubt I'll ever need them though.

4D

[bob-chi-bell]

My Bosch 1617 router motor has a shoulder on it near the top. I fabricated 3 plywood rings, that fit not to loose and not to tight, that I added between the clamp and the shoulder to take most of the router weight. This is done so the router bit will be at the right elevation to make the dust boot work. You then only have to tighten the clamp enough so the router does not twist. I think this will extend the life of the plastic clamp.

[Sam]

I just want to thank everybody for their business, and hope that the clamps are performing well. I would also like to share some photos of the clamp installed, graciously given to me by a customer. Thank you!

[WoodEraser]

I too have the alum clamp on my Bosh Colt on the Pro Plus as OEM one also cracked.
I'm going to get the one for the Dewalt as I'm changing over.

Sam I noticed your bottom plate is missing dust port section.
Did you cut it off or machine a new one?
I'm looking at eliminating my protrusion also as I don't use the port.

[bob-chi-bell]

I bought the aluminum clamp also and it works very well (the price went up from previous e-mails - supply & demand)

One thing , whether you are using the dust port attachment or not, the two front holes in the plastic of the under carriage need to be enlarged for all the holes to line up and not put stress on the plastic.

[Sam]

Glad to hear that everybody is happy with them, and they are working as intended!
Eric, that is not my machine pictured. I have no information on any modifications. Sorry
Bob, yes, the price for the HD clamps did rise a small bit. The PRO clamps are still 45 + shipping.