I purchased a new Shark 3x6 in November to start producing scaled architectural models and take offs cut lists for building models in general.
Anybody out there using the shark for similar ventures wanting to share info or questions...Architectural model making
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Sharkman82
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Sat Jan 01, 2011 11:31 am
Architectural model making
Hi all,
I purchased a new Shark 3x6 in November to start producing scaled architectural models and take offs cut lists for building models in general. Anybody out there using the shark for similar ventures wanting to share info or questions...
I purchased a new Shark 3x6 in November to start producing scaled architectural models and take offs cut lists for building models in general.
Anybody out there using the shark for similar ventures wanting to share info or questions...-
Sharkman82
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Sat Jan 01, 2011 11:31 am
Re: Architectural model making
Two questions:
1.
I'm still struggling with how the shark cut corners on basic shapes. I am taking elevations straight from ArchiCAD, cleaning them up is a separate DXF and bringing them into VCARVE PRO. Internal windows or doors (AKA: simple squares) always cut with a radius larger then the bit. I am running a 0.8mm bit and it always puts a 5-6mm radius as it shifts form the X to the Y axis or vise versa. Obviously its always going to leave a radius of the bit (in this case 0.4mm). The only way I've got around for time being is to apply a 0.4mm radius to the corners of all windows and doors and force the Shark to follow it.
2.
Also, MATERIALS
After A LOT of experimenting and wasted material, I've come down to using 3mm MDF or 3mm HIPS styrene sheets. The MDF is great, no real dramas there but hips i'm stuggling with in terms of feed rate and depth of passes. It will cut a window out perfectly (say a 20mm x 20mm) but at 5m/minute Feed rate @ 1mm passes, it cakes up plastic at the bit and and doesn't cut clean. Should I take more passes at the material i.e 0.5mm pass cuts?
1.
I'm still struggling with how the shark cut corners on basic shapes. I am taking elevations straight from ArchiCAD, cleaning them up is a separate DXF and bringing them into VCARVE PRO. Internal windows or doors (AKA: simple squares) always cut with a radius larger then the bit. I am running a 0.8mm bit and it always puts a 5-6mm radius as it shifts form the X to the Y axis or vise versa. Obviously its always going to leave a radius of the bit (in this case 0.4mm). The only way I've got around for time being is to apply a 0.4mm radius to the corners of all windows and doors and force the Shark to follow it.
2.
Also, MATERIALS
After A LOT of experimenting and wasted material, I've come down to using 3mm MDF or 3mm HIPS styrene sheets. The MDF is great, no real dramas there but hips i'm stuggling with in terms of feed rate and depth of passes. It will cut a window out perfectly (say a 20mm x 20mm) but at 5m/minute Feed rate @ 1mm passes, it cakes up plastic at the bit and and doesn't cut clean. Should I take more passes at the material i.e 0.5mm pass cuts?Re: Architectural model making
Hi,
I don't have any direct life experience answers for either. However, I would recommend you do a little searching in the meantime on the Vectric Forum and others - like www.cnczone.com - and hopefully someone on this forum has experience and will respond as well.
In all cases, sometimes a search of forums isn't necessarily intuitive or short in time. I've found a lot of valuable to me stuff in searching and thumbing through 20-100s of posts before stumbling into the topic of interest.
From the Vectric forum on your #1 - http://www.vectric.com/forum/viewtopic. ... are+corner - may provide some additional ideas.
From the Vectric forum on your #2 - seems like at least one person has found that they must use carbide cutters with styrene. HSS just gums up. http://www.vectric.com/forum/viewtopic. ... ene#p67653
You might also post these questions there as well - a much larger community of CNC users. If you get a solution to either, would enjoy reading about it.
I don't have any direct life experience answers for either. However, I would recommend you do a little searching in the meantime on the Vectric Forum and others - like www.cnczone.com - and hopefully someone on this forum has experience and will respond as well.
In all cases, sometimes a search of forums isn't necessarily intuitive or short in time. I've found a lot of valuable to me stuff in searching and thumbing through 20-100s of posts before stumbling into the topic of interest.
From the Vectric forum on your #1 - http://www.vectric.com/forum/viewtopic. ... are+corner - may provide some additional ideas.
From the Vectric forum on your #2 - seems like at least one person has found that they must use carbide cutters with styrene. HSS just gums up. http://www.vectric.com/forum/viewtopic. ... ene#p67653
You might also post these questions there as well - a much larger community of CNC users. If you get a solution to either, would enjoy reading about it.
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Consultingwoodworker
- Posts: 333
- Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2010 7:37 am
- Location: Nashville area
- Contact:
Re: Architectural model making
Cutting plastics are always an issue.
If the friction of the cutting exceeds the melting point of the plastic, you will get "weld back" where the plastic either globs up along the cut. Or even fills it back in.
Counter-intuitively, you reduce friction (and heat) through a faster feed rate with lower RPM. The more times the cutting edge meets the plastic, the more friction heat is generated. Up your feed and lower the rpm.
The bit you are using is likely part of the issue as well. You should be looking at plastic cutting bits, specifically "O flute" bits. Onsrud makes a huge selection and most better quality tool dealers carry them.
Hope this helps,
Ralph
If the friction of the cutting exceeds the melting point of the plastic, you will get "weld back" where the plastic either globs up along the cut. Or even fills it back in.
Counter-intuitively, you reduce friction (and heat) through a faster feed rate with lower RPM. The more times the cutting edge meets the plastic, the more friction heat is generated. Up your feed and lower the rpm.
The bit you are using is likely part of the issue as well. You should be looking at plastic cutting bits, specifically "O flute" bits. Onsrud makes a huge selection and most better quality tool dealers carry them.
Hope this helps,
Ralph
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Sharkman82
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Sat Jan 01, 2011 11:31 am
Re: Architectural model making
Thank you all for the reply! i'll be searching through CNC zone over the next week and I'll give some feedback if I find anything 
...I also had some luck at a local hardware as I met a gentlman there who's friend has been involved in CNC who might share some knowledge.I have been cutting with a end mill style, I think it's a 2 flute. it's definetely been doin exactly what you said Ralph and clumps up an ruins the cut piece. I'll checks out the suggested bits as well...
...I also had some luck at a local hardware as I met a gentlman there who's friend has been involved in CNC who might share some knowledge.I have been cutting with a end mill style, I think it's a 2 flute. it's definetely been doin exactly what you said Ralph and clumps up an ruins the cut piece. I'll checks out the suggested bits as well...