Just copy an end mill tool and then change the bit profile data to correspond to the bit you are going to use and rename it.SKIF16 wrote:Thanks. It seems so simple now that you showed me what to do. Now all I have to figure out is how to display my leveling bit in the tool index of Vcarve. I normally just copy the info from a similar tool into my data base, but I cannot find a similar tool in the examples on the Vcarve tool index.
Check Six - SKI
Attaching spoil board question
Moderators: al wolford, sbk, Bob, Kayvon
Re: Attaching spoil board question
Thanks,
FWHarris
FWHarris
Re: Attaching spoil board question
What size hold down bolts did you use? I purchased some 1 inch 1/4-20 hex head bolts and they wouldn't fit into the slots for the machined aluminum.
Also, do you have any recommendations for the insert sizes?
Thanks,
MD
Also, do you have any recommendations for the insert sizes?
Thanks,
MD
Re: Attaching spoil board question
When I was getting started, I got this t-bolt kit from Rockler, and been using them ever since:
http://www.rockler.com/129-pc-jig-hardw ... -150-value
Those 5/16" bolts fit the T-slots in my HD2+ bed (the copper-colored one) perfectly. Oddly, I don't see a kit for 1/4-20 on their site.
If you need to go the other way, like your post described, where you're bolting DOWN, you'll want to use T-nuts inside the slots, like these:
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/wood ... ut-10-pack
There is a 5/16" size of that same T-nut product, but at least on my machine, they did NOT fit into the slots. Yes, even thought the Rockler 5/16" T-BOLTS do...go figure . So, if you're going that way, you'll want 1/4" bolts.
I also use a bunch of these cam-clamps to hold fixtures or parts to the bed. http://www.rockler.com/cam-clamp
That way, I use the shorter T-bolts coming up, then it's just a right-sized hole and the cam clamp to tie it down. Alignment shouldn't be done according to the position of the hold-down bolts, IMO. Alignment is done with a set of accurate registration pins/surfaces, while hold-down keeps the workpiece/spoil board against the alignment surfaces. But, that's just me .
One thing I can definitely praise Rockler for is their clamping KNOBS. They have a nice, wide selection, they're always in stock, and they are as cheap as anywhere I've found, even the chain hardware stores can cost more, and often have too few on hand to git 'er done.
And yes, you're right that hex bolts are too big .
Hope that provides some additional things to consider.
Regards,
Thom
http://www.rockler.com/129-pc-jig-hardw ... -150-value
Those 5/16" bolts fit the T-slots in my HD2+ bed (the copper-colored one) perfectly. Oddly, I don't see a kit for 1/4-20 on their site.
If you need to go the other way, like your post described, where you're bolting DOWN, you'll want to use T-nuts inside the slots, like these:
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/wood ... ut-10-pack
There is a 5/16" size of that same T-nut product, but at least on my machine, they did NOT fit into the slots. Yes, even thought the Rockler 5/16" T-BOLTS do...go figure . So, if you're going that way, you'll want 1/4" bolts.
I also use a bunch of these cam-clamps to hold fixtures or parts to the bed. http://www.rockler.com/cam-clamp
That way, I use the shorter T-bolts coming up, then it's just a right-sized hole and the cam clamp to tie it down. Alignment shouldn't be done according to the position of the hold-down bolts, IMO. Alignment is done with a set of accurate registration pins/surfaces, while hold-down keeps the workpiece/spoil board against the alignment surfaces. But, that's just me .
One thing I can definitely praise Rockler for is their clamping KNOBS. They have a nice, wide selection, they're always in stock, and they are as cheap as anywhere I've found, even the chain hardware stores can cost more, and often have too few on hand to git 'er done.
And yes, you're right that hex bolts are too big .
Hope that provides some additional things to consider.
Regards,
Thom
=====================================================
ThomR.com Creative tools and photographic art
A proud member of the Pacific Northwest CNC Club (now on Facebook)
ThomR.com Creative tools and photographic art
A proud member of the Pacific Northwest CNC Club (now on Facebook)