Modified Table Top for 'Pro"

Discussion specifically about the Shark's bigger brother, the CNC Shark Pro

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Jeff Krogman
Posts: 32
Joined: Wed Nov 10, 2010 9:18 pm

Modified Table Top for 'Pro"

Post by Jeff Krogman »

I just modified the exsisting table top with T-Track.
Used 3/4" particle board, Layed out 1/2 of table top in Aspire Version 3.0.
Flipped orginal top over and cut out for T-Track( 3/4"w x 1/2"d).
It works like a champ.I have 3/8" of table top to do complete cut thru material with no worrys of hitting track
Now the Shark Pro allows me the same clamping area as the Shark and more.

I now have a CNC Shark for sale.
Modified Table Top#3.jpg
Modified Table top#2.jpg
Modified table top.jpg

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NewAgent45
Posts: 230
Joined: Sun Sep 08, 2013 8:29 am
Location: Edgewater, Florida, USA

Re: Modified Table Top for 'Pro"

Post by NewAgent45 »

I'm very new to CNC and don't have my machine yet. From your pictures it appears you installed the T-track by flexing the track and inserted into the slot where the holes are making the installation blind. Is this the case? If so what brand ot T-travk was used and how flexable is it?

Thanks!

Rod

milo30
Posts: 553
Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2012 9:21 pm

Re: Modified Table Top for 'Pro"

Post by milo30 »

No he used two boards. Sounds like particle board as a base and pocketed the t-track into it, then took his original MDF and cut thru that to give access to the t-track. The track is actually mounted on the bottom board and he has access to it for clamping through his sacrificial top board protecting the tracks from getting cut. I did something similar. I was unhappy with the flex in the 3/4" MDF so I glued another 3/4" on top of it which made it very rigid. I leveled that then cut 3/4" MDF into about 3 or 4" strips on the table saw and attached that on top.

The upside is if I want t-tracks in the gaps I can use them and never damage them. When any of the strips start getting cut up from use, I can replace with another strip rather than having to purchase an entire sheet of MDF. The table is now 2.25" thick and has no flex in it at all. I can probably stand on it without having a problem. Cheaper to replace sections.

The down side is that I lost 1.5" of clearance Z clearance which isn't important to me as I don't do any 3d carvings. I have to watch the rear clamps with the router carriage as it is now closer to the table. I could lift it or just use a different clamp to avoid problems but I actually prefer screws to clamps so it works for me.

I could have eliminated the center MDF board and not have any issues but I wanted it really firm. I have attached a couple of pictures to show you my setup. I spaced the top slats to match the t-tracks so I could just drop them in place and screw them down if I wanted to use them. I had 2 laying around so I put them on just to experiment. I'll actually be removing them and using for something else.
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NewAgent45
Posts: 230
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Location: Edgewater, Florida, USA

Re: Modified Table Top for 'Pro"

Post by NewAgent45 »

MIlo30, I'm sorry for the delayed reply. I discovered I had something wrong in my profile setting and didn't see any replys. I'm catching up on my posts this morning.

Thanks for the advice and the pictures. I really like your spoil board approach of using strips. The only thing I might need is to ad another T-track to accomidate smaller projects.

You mentioned the use of screws. Are you using screws to mount some of your projects? I can see that this would be fine for some of my planned projects.

Thanks!

Rod

milo30
Posts: 553
Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2012 9:21 pm

Re: Modified Table Top for 'Pro"

Post by milo30 »

I just make sure my material is an inch or two larger than needed, drill the hole and then screw it into the mdf. By drilling , then screwing it won't split and seats flat on the mdf. After removing, the mdf will have a small bulge at hole and I just give it a scrape with a cabinet scraper to flatten. I never have to worry about clamp positions and I know it will never move.

Use brass screws if you are worried and if wrong the bit will just cut through and keep going. 99.9% of everything I do is screwed down. With my setup, if I wanted to change the track locations I could by more tracks or just unscrew it and move it to another slot

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NewAgent45
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Joined: Sun Sep 08, 2013 8:29 am
Location: Edgewater, Florida, USA

Re: Modified Table Top for 'Pro"

Post by NewAgent45 »

This thread is great help for setup or improving the table top on a machine with MDF base table. What would be your recommendations for a machine with Aluminum T-Slot top like the Shark HD – Rockler item # 39500? I’m leaving this as an open question because of different material mounting scenarios from mounting/clamping wood and also thin materials like thin acrylic sheet for lithopanes.

I like the T-slot top which gives you multiple clamp anchor points. If you just simply cover this with a thick base material like MDF you are hiding the T-slots.
One way I can see is to mount strips of MDF as a spoil board with spaces to expose the T-slots. Then you could surface plane to true the mounting surface.

Will the T-slots on the table accomidate a standard size nut to be used with brass flathead machine screws to aanchor the spoil boards?

For lithopanes a separate fixture could be built. I think I saw where someone on the forum build one using bench dogs. But I can't seem to find it.

I’m new to this and welcome all comments. :) I know this is changing the original subject to HD machines. I though it would be the right place for discussing table modifications.

..... Rod

milo30
Posts: 553
Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2012 9:21 pm

Re: Modified Table Top for 'Pro"

Post by milo30 »

There are posts on reenforcing the aluminum top. I would post another thread asking for more details. There is also the 2.0 software to compensate for it if you go that route. I know its done by many I just haven't read how they do it as it doesn't apply to my machine

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Consultingwoodworker
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Re: Modified Table Top for 'Pro"

Post by Consultingwoodworker »

I have the original Shark Pro, MDF stock bed.

I simply cut a piece of 3/4" MDF to 22" square, cut a series of t-slots into it 4" center to center, and bolted it on top of the stock bed using nylon bolts.

It allows for clamping and I made it 22" square so that I could plane the top with the router. Planing it makes it absolutely parallel to the plane of the head, eliminating any issues with the bed not being totally flat.

I like the t-slot idea shown above, but cutting the t-slots into the MDF means that I can replace it quickly and I expensively as needed.

Ralph

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