Its ARRIVED! And I am already confused

[tonybell9699]

Hi all!

So a purchased the 60th anniversary Edition, the touch probe and the 5 bit Router bit (CNC) set. I have it set up on a old table until I get to making a table for it this weekend.

I am using the 90° 3/8 V-groove bit that came with the unit and am having a devil of a time coming up with a clean routed sign lettering. I have attached my file, but it is coming out with a great deal of chipout .

I am trying this on Poplar, I was watching youtube videos where it seemed they were using the same bit on pine and it came out very nice. So I am thinking I am messing up somewhere. My Router speed is set to 14,000.

Thanks!!
Tony

[tonydude]

Popular can cause chipout and lot of fuzzies, that is why most people don't use it. I tried it once and no more. I use mainly cherry, oak, walnut, birch, once in awhile I use pine for plaques. Been doing this for 4 yrs now with my shark. Once you do a few you will know what woods to use as you get more experience. Love working with cherry it carves nice. Watch the videos on vectric support lot of info there. http://support.vectric.com/training-material

Tony

[KarenW]

Like tonydude, I prefer cherry, walnut, birch and maple (I steer totally clear of oak) but have used some poplar on occasion. When I do I always shoot a coat of lacquer first and let it dry before carving - it cuts a lot cleaner that way.

But your photo doesn't look like the problem is with the poplar - it looks like it's either carved too deep or you're programmed for a .325 but using a .50 instead. The only reason I say this is because I had something similar last week. I had just added a new bit to my tool database - an 11º vbit - and the computer in the shop is prone to pick up any change or addition and apply it to whatever file I open the first time after making that change. I ran my file, never thinking to check what bit it was using because I rarely switch bits and my text came out just this way.
Of course reading the opening info lines of the G-code immediately solved the mystery - it was programmed for an 11º but a 60º was chucked into the router.
Now I do a quick review of the toolpath before running a file just to check depth of cut and the bit, something I should have been doing all along anyway just because it's the smart thing to do but doubly so because I have a slightly quirky computer in the shop. (lol)

Now, having gone through that whole thing, I looked at your file again but checked the font and size.
This very well could be a case of big bit, small text. I see your text height is only .522 on a workspace that's only 1.5" tall. Try doing the same font, same bit, but make your text a full 1 inch tall and see what sort of results you get. Some texts require a smaller angle to carve cleanly at .50 or less.

Studying your photo - it just seems to me that it's crammed in there, like the bit is too big or the font too small.
I've turned your photo and put it next to the preview of your file for comparison.

[BillK]

"I am using the 90° 3/8 V-groove bit"

Agree with Karen, plus I always see a 90 degree 1/2 inch bit supplied with the Sharks. So that would account for that assuming you set Z zero correctly.

I've carved poplar with no problem, speeds kept down. Also red oak is probably featured in 90% of my projects, you just need to keep you bits sharp.

[tonybell9699]

Thanks for all the tips! By fixing the size, slowing the bitt down and putting a couple coats if finish it came out great!! While a steep learning curve for me, I appreciate the great help you gave!!

Now on to the next project
Tony

[tonydude]

That is how we all learn on here from each other, glad it worked for you.

Tony

[MINNE_JOHN]

Don't ignore the material's moisture content. I manage a dry-kiln operation in South Carolina, and we find that poplar is prone to "pocketing" -- some boards dry fine, and others retain moisture (sometimes in just one segment of the board, usually toward the middle. Moist wood is prone to tear-outs, fuzzing, and what I call "doughing" ... the bit plugs with moist wood that's partly liquified by the heat of the bit and then starts cutting sloppily, burning, etc.

You can get a General Instrument moisture tester at Lowe's or Home Depot for about $30. It's a great investment, especially if you are going to do deep cutting or particularly fine work.

[dan1931]

Your bitt RPM Seams a little slow I would recommend 20,000 RPM for a bitt that size.
I have carved poplar in 3D with 1/8 ball nose and to my surprise it came out excellent. I believe it depends on the sub species of poplar.
I Vcarve cedar all the time with excellent results.
When Vcarving using Vcarve Pro the soft ware will write the program to mach the bitt so you don't have to worry about bitt vs letter size. If you use a small bitt it will cut the same pattern except it will take more passes to do the job.
Getting the correct RPM And travel speed is a matter of turning the RPM as fast as the size will allow. There are tables for that. then it is a mater of regulating the travel speed Slow enough to get a clean cut but fast enough that it doesn't burn.
Good Luck
Dan

[milo30]

Poplar can be a bit finicky as far as fuzzies go but I have used it quite a bit with good results. I go about it a little different than Dan and have had good results. Most of the tables that I have seen seem to have been created for the larger more robust machines capable of faster travel times. I run my rpms on the slower side and adjust the ipm speed. It really depends on what kind of material you are using and is something that you'll have to learn from trial and error. You may want to experiment on different types of woods at different settings and keep a log of what works best on your machine. Eventually, the settings will become second nature.

Get into the habit of one last check when you load the file into the machine. I've learned to always look at the first couple of lines and see what size bit it is expecting to be used and then check for the proper bit to be loaded as well as the starting point on that file Most all the issues are user caused and creating a system of checks before the cut will save plenty of headaches.

Just remind yourself that there is a learning curve to getting this stuff down and go slow. It will be second nature soon.