Newbie intro and questions - dust box
Moderators: al wolford, sbk, Bob, Kayvon
Re: Newbie intro and questions - dust box
The cables plug into the control box. On the table assembly they run to the stepper motors. One on top of the router head, one on the end of the gantry, and one on the center of the end of the base. Routing them so they don't get hung up is up to you. They are protected by a plastic cable shield. You can see one of the (black) shields running alongside the table in my picture.
Re: Newbie intro and questions - dust box
Here is my first attempt at the dust box. I made it easy to disassemble. As suggested I used 1/4" acrylic glass.
Instead of piano hinges I discovered you can actually get plexiglass piano hinges for the whole length. Then I simply used the welding cement for plexiglass (the methyl chloride something) and it makes great joint (far more reliable than screws) . On the other side I cement it to 1 x 1/2" thick strips of plexiglass then used special flat screws to attach it to the wooden frame. I don't see this would break soon. At least I learned how to work with plexiglass, the guys at the plastic place were absolutely great in teaching me how to cement it and work with it, even gave me cutoffs to practice.
I will attach dust hoses later when the shark is actually inside to be sure it is on proper place.
Maybe you can help me out, (I don't plan to use dust shoe for now), where would be appropriate place for the dust port on such dust box? Would there be any benefit of blow-in fan, let's say across from the dust port to move the the dust towards the port?
Instead of piano hinges I discovered you can actually get plexiglass piano hinges for the whole length. Then I simply used the welding cement for plexiglass (the methyl chloride something) and it makes great joint (far more reliable than screws) . On the other side I cement it to 1 x 1/2" thick strips of plexiglass then used special flat screws to attach it to the wooden frame. I don't see this would break soon. At least I learned how to work with plexiglass, the guys at the plastic place were absolutely great in teaching me how to cement it and work with it, even gave me cutoffs to practice.
I will attach dust hoses later when the shark is actually inside to be sure it is on proper place.
Maybe you can help me out, (I don't plan to use dust shoe for now), where would be appropriate place for the dust port on such dust box? Would there be any benefit of blow-in fan, let's say across from the dust port to move the the dust towards the port?
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Re: Newbie intro and questions - dust box
Wow, your results look great!!
I got my polycarb at home depot. No help there. They didn't even know what I was talking about when I asked where it was. I may see another rebuild in my future.
For dust, I started out with a port on the back wall, a dust separator and a shop vac. Then I picked up a small dust collector at Harbor, but sometimes I think the shop vac worked better. I like the idea of inlet fans. As it is, I find that I have to leave the door ajar a bit to improve the airflow. With inlet fans, it would provide the airflow while preventing dust from coming out. The trick is to find some that will match the cfm of the dust collector.
The other thing I did was to install a power strip with individule switches for each outlet. It's in easy reach from my computer and gives me the ability to control everything from one spot. Particularly since the plain Shark does not have the ability to control the router power. On the power strip, I have the controller, router, dust collector and the two lights. I keep the computer on a separate circuit. I had to find an online source as none of the hardware stores in the area carried them.
Scott
I got my polycarb at home depot. No help there. They didn't even know what I was talking about when I asked where it was. I may see another rebuild in my future.
For dust, I started out with a port on the back wall, a dust separator and a shop vac. Then I picked up a small dust collector at Harbor, but sometimes I think the shop vac worked better. I like the idea of inlet fans. As it is, I find that I have to leave the door ajar a bit to improve the airflow. With inlet fans, it would provide the airflow while preventing dust from coming out. The trick is to find some that will match the cfm of the dust collector.
The other thing I did was to install a power strip with individule switches for each outlet. It's in easy reach from my computer and gives me the ability to control everything from one spot. Particularly since the plain Shark does not have the ability to control the router power. On the power strip, I have the controller, router, dust collector and the two lights. I keep the computer on a separate circuit. I had to find an online source as none of the hardware stores in the area carried them.
Scott
Re: Newbie intro and questions - dust box
These are both super looking enclosures. Great job on both.
My cabinet is very similar and I have played with several methods of enclosure/dust collection with the goal of
keeping the dust contained and keeping the lead screws and bearings clean.
The "shop vac hose near the tool" worked better than nothing. The problem is that chips fly out from the tool mostly horizontally in all directions.
The shop vac can't pull in the ones flying out opposite the hose. The shop vac filter gets full quite quickly unless you use a small cyclone. Mounting the hose in "teh right place" is a challenge.
Next came the "low fence around the cutting table" where I made a 1/4 inch ply wall that extends from the table surface to almost the bottom of the gantry on 3 sides, leaving the access side with a removable wall that lifts out. This helps keep the chips from flying beyond the table edge. definite progress.
Next came the 1.5 horsepower cyclone pulling air out from either the rear of the cabinet or the side of the router. Since so much air is leaving the cabinet, a slot 3" x 38" was needed in the front to allow air flow to come in. so now it is more like a laboratory chemical hood. When it is running you can drop dust in the air near the slot on the outside of the cabinet and the dust is drawn into the cabinet.
Next , since I have a "HD like" machine, I put a Kentcnc dust shoe on, (which is an excellent product). I shortened the bristles a little and cut a slot out of the bristles just in front of the tool to allow you to see the tool while its cutting. This picks up almost all of the dust if you are cutting relatively flat items. The downside is you lose side travel if the hose is positioned on the side. So this setup rates high in dust collecting, at the expense of some travel and visibility. I am doing a flattening cut on a 12 x 18 sacrificial table this morning, with the Kentcnc shoe there is almost no dust in the machine at all. The hose exits the top of the cabinet to help keep the weight off the dust shoe. I'm using a section of Rockler "dust right" expandable hose, which is like a flexible "slinky" and actually wants to lift a little (as I sized it to be stretched slightly when on the shoe).
The best overall setup may end up being the "windtunnel " approach where the exhaust air from the cyclone is blown back over the table to a collector at the rear wall of the table. That would place the tool in a moving stream of air that would pull all the debris to the rear and into the cyclone. A good cyclone should remove almost all the dust on each pass making recirculation possible. This would give great visibility, no loss of travel, no loading of the gantry, and only one fan motor needed.
Havent tried this yet as my dust collector doe not lend itself to rerouting the exhaust. I would have to build a box around it, or use a different motor, or use a separate blower. I always want the cabinet to be under some negative pressure to prevent dust leaving the cabinet.
For now "the wall" and Kentcnc shoe are really working well.
Hope this helps.
Bob
My cabinet is very similar and I have played with several methods of enclosure/dust collection with the goal of
keeping the dust contained and keeping the lead screws and bearings clean.
The "shop vac hose near the tool" worked better than nothing. The problem is that chips fly out from the tool mostly horizontally in all directions.
The shop vac can't pull in the ones flying out opposite the hose. The shop vac filter gets full quite quickly unless you use a small cyclone. Mounting the hose in "teh right place" is a challenge.
Next came the "low fence around the cutting table" where I made a 1/4 inch ply wall that extends from the table surface to almost the bottom of the gantry on 3 sides, leaving the access side with a removable wall that lifts out. This helps keep the chips from flying beyond the table edge. definite progress.
Next came the 1.5 horsepower cyclone pulling air out from either the rear of the cabinet or the side of the router. Since so much air is leaving the cabinet, a slot 3" x 38" was needed in the front to allow air flow to come in. so now it is more like a laboratory chemical hood. When it is running you can drop dust in the air near the slot on the outside of the cabinet and the dust is drawn into the cabinet.
Next , since I have a "HD like" machine, I put a Kentcnc dust shoe on, (which is an excellent product). I shortened the bristles a little and cut a slot out of the bristles just in front of the tool to allow you to see the tool while its cutting. This picks up almost all of the dust if you are cutting relatively flat items. The downside is you lose side travel if the hose is positioned on the side. So this setup rates high in dust collecting, at the expense of some travel and visibility. I am doing a flattening cut on a 12 x 18 sacrificial table this morning, with the Kentcnc shoe there is almost no dust in the machine at all. The hose exits the top of the cabinet to help keep the weight off the dust shoe. I'm using a section of Rockler "dust right" expandable hose, which is like a flexible "slinky" and actually wants to lift a little (as I sized it to be stretched slightly when on the shoe).
The best overall setup may end up being the "windtunnel " approach where the exhaust air from the cyclone is blown back over the table to a collector at the rear wall of the table. That would place the tool in a moving stream of air that would pull all the debris to the rear and into the cyclone. A good cyclone should remove almost all the dust on each pass making recirculation possible. This would give great visibility, no loss of travel, no loading of the gantry, and only one fan motor needed.
Havent tried this yet as my dust collector doe not lend itself to rerouting the exhaust. I would have to build a box around it, or use a different motor, or use a separate blower. I always want the cabinet to be under some negative pressure to prevent dust leaving the cabinet.
For now "the wall" and Kentcnc shoe are really working well.
Hope this helps.
Bob
Re: Newbie intro and questions - dust box
I forgot to post the picture showing the wall and dust shoe.
Here is my shark in its cabinet. The computer running mach3 on upper right.
Keyboard and monitor hinge out of the way when not in use.
You can also see the slot in the dust shoe for viewing the tool.
The clear Lexan front wall is not shown. With it out you can get good access to all areas.
The Lexan top and bottom front piece are there semi permanently.
The cabinet was sized to sit over two rolling tool boxes that pull out when needed.
The pendant is sitting on the top of one of the boxes, the tool boxes stick out about 6 inches which makes a nice shelf. The power strip is on right, big E-stop on lower left.
The shark itself is mounted to a sheet of 1/2 birch ply. The whole assembly slides out of the cabinet to service the shark. Electronics are mounted in a box in the left rear, taking air from the outside of the cabinet. Cable chain routes the wiring to motor and limit and home switches.
Here is my shark in its cabinet. The computer running mach3 on upper right.
Keyboard and monitor hinge out of the way when not in use.
You can also see the slot in the dust shoe for viewing the tool.
The clear Lexan front wall is not shown. With it out you can get good access to all areas.
The Lexan top and bottom front piece are there semi permanently.
The cabinet was sized to sit over two rolling tool boxes that pull out when needed.
The pendant is sitting on the top of one of the boxes, the tool boxes stick out about 6 inches which makes a nice shelf. The power strip is on right, big E-stop on lower left.
The shark itself is mounted to a sheet of 1/2 birch ply. The whole assembly slides out of the cabinet to service the shark. Electronics are mounted in a box in the left rear, taking air from the outside of the cabinet. Cable chain routes the wiring to motor and limit and home switches.
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- shark cabinet with dust collection
Re: Newbie intro and questions - dust box
I have 750 CFM dust collector and it works so-so, but the pressure is very little in open space so it can't draw much dust from distance. So that's why I am tinkling about the inlet port to blow it across. Maybe it will work better since it is closed box... who knows, hopefully I will have shark next week and nothing will be broken.
Good idea about the power outlet with separate switches, I have to look for those....
Good idea about the power outlet with separate switches, I have to look for those....
Re: Newbie intro and questions - dust box
Oh, one another totally newbie question, what wood would be good for first learning projects?
What machines nicely?
What machines nicely?
Re: Newbie intro and questions - dust box
If you use the dust shoe, the source of the dust is only inches from the vacuum hose. so no problems.
The brush on the dust shoe keeps the flying chips under control very well.
If you dont use a dust shoe, I suggest you consider "the wall" to keep the flying chips on the table where you can vacuum them up easilly when the job is done.
I did that for a while and it worked pretty well. The wall does not do much by itself to keep dust off of the x axis bearings and leadscrew though.
If you have your vacuum hose inside the cabinet, your cabinet will need some open area to allow air to enter. Otherwise you are trying to take air out of a closed box and the cfm will be very very low. Even with a 3 x 38 inch opening, my lexan bows in slightly when I turn on the cyclone. My cfm should be similar to yours.
The brush on the dust shoe keeps the flying chips under control very well.
If you dont use a dust shoe, I suggest you consider "the wall" to keep the flying chips on the table where you can vacuum them up easilly when the job is done.
I did that for a while and it worked pretty well. The wall does not do much by itself to keep dust off of the x axis bearings and leadscrew though.
If you have your vacuum hose inside the cabinet, your cabinet will need some open area to allow air to enter. Otherwise you are trying to take air out of a closed box and the cfm will be very very low. Even with a 3 x 38 inch opening, my lexan bows in slightly when I turn on the cyclone. My cfm should be similar to yours.
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monitoringpost
- Posts: 96
- Joined: Wed Nov 02, 2011 10:40 pm
- Location: Canada
Re: Newbie intro and questions - dust box
I just received my HD this past weekend and went down the same path as you - in the end the HD was still cheaper than the i-Carver's largest model. Looking forward to participating in the community also.Oscar123 wrote:Why I went for Shark? Where I am in canada the only thing in stores for order is a General iCarve, which was my first tip to get. But after looking at the details and the nearly nonexisting info I logically went to shark pro plus because of the nonpropirietary modular nature, big community and bundled software - it simply is far better investment. Those things always get their ghosts and problems and i am a newbie so having active community is simply must.
O123
Re: Newbie intro and questions - dust box
Lucky you, I'm still waiting for news on where mine is.monitoringpost wrote:
I just received my HD this past weekend and went down the same path as you ...
While that Kent shoe looks simple and very effective, I'm still thinking about building an enclosure because it would allow me to watch what the cutter is doing. My shop has a 2500 cfm central dust collection system, so either way I should get good collection.
I'm a complete CNC newbie, so I don't want to make the decision after running my machine for a while. A lot of good input about the subject on this forum though.
John