Touch Plate!

[4DThinker]

Let me know how this works out. I am really considering getting a touch plate.

Mine is on the way. I'll post a quick review once I've had it for a day or two.

[4DThinker]

Double post.

[4DThinker]

My Touch Plate arrived today. Had to register the serial number and wait for a code via email before the software enabled use of it though. Use the new registration code to register the software and the Touch option shows up. The plate I got had .380 on it, but measuring with my calipers it varied by .015 across the plate. Worked fine other than the fact that my sample board was cupped and the plate spanned the dip in the board. The gap under the plate was exactly the same as how far the bit was above the piece when sent to 0,0,0. I flipped the board over and use the hold-down to flatten the center and got a pretty close Z=0.

After a few tries a bug showed up though. When after touching the plate the router didn't lift. When working right it will lift up the Z-clearance amount so you can remove the plate. Closed and re-opened the software fixed it at least for now.

Looks like you could use any measured piece of conductive metal for a plate, and I'll probably make a smaller one since I'm making many tiny parts lately.

[hdtheater]

Looks like you could use any measured piece of conductive metal for a plate....

Does this mean the logic is not in the plate itself, but somewhere else? Would be nice to see some sales info or video on this.

-Eric

[4DThinker]

Does this mean the logic is not in the plate itself, but somewhere else? Would be nice to see some sales info or video on this.

-Eric

The plate is simply a bar of what looks to be aluminum, with a hole drilled in one end to receive the banana jack plug from the provided cable. All that happens in use is that when the bit touches the plate a circuit is closed to tell the software it has touched. The jack on the controller is a simple 1/8" stereo jack also used for the scan probe. 2 leads come out that when touched together close the circuit. No logic or circuitry at all in what you get for your $90.

[wooddude]

One word of caution about the touch plate.
I was cruising the PreciseBits.com website and checking out the micro end mills used for very finely detailed engravings and carvings. There's a warning there that using a touch plate with the micro tools (<1/16" dia.) can damage the tool.

[baby15]

One word of caution about the touch plate.
I was cruising the PreciseBits.com website and checking out the micro end mills used for very finely detailed engravings and carvings. There's a warning there that using a touch plate with the micro tools (<1/16" dia.) can damage the tool.

will buy one if enough people like it. but would like a video on it.

[tonydude]

Here is the user guide for the touch plate.

http://www.rockler.com/tech/43803CNCTou ... ctions.pdf

From rockler website

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page ... te=ROCKLER

[DickL]

I just finished my first project since installing my touch plate which arrived yesterday. Six bit changes and the touch plate worked every time. I received the key this morning and installed it in the control panel to activate the touch plate software module.

I have the basic (13 X 24) shark which I purchased about a year ago. It did not come with the internal cable installed in the control box. I called NWA befor I ordered the touch plate and they included the cable in the touch plate kit. The cable is the same one that comes with the touch probe and is installed the same way.

My touch plate did not come with a lable on it that had the serial number or width. The seral number is on the touch plate instruction sheet. I measured the width using a micrometer and entered it into the control panel.

My impression so far is that it is a good product. The hardware that you receive may not cost all that much, but don't forget there was software and software testing which you don't see.

DickL

[4DThinker]

For those afraid of using the Touch plate, I wouldn't worry. I made the mistake once of not attaching the magnetic end to the chuck, and as the bit came down it pressed down on the plate, started deflecting the table before I cancelled the routine and jogged the bit up. The aluminum plate is softer than any bit you'll use, and with the Shark there is enough flex in the table assemble that a mistake like I made would be needed to snap a tiny bit. Didn't do any damage at all to the 1/4" carbide down-spiral bit I had in there.

Used it on a project today and actually giggled a bit with how easy it made zeroing the bit. Just don't forget to attach that magentic lead!