Home switches and Inputs NG

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Ken Gibbs
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri May 05, 2017 2:07 pm

Home switches and Inputs NG

Post by Ken Gibbs »

Hi, I have been working on this for a week, but to no avail.
This is an older CNC shark 24x24 router system with a xylotex XS 3525/8S-3 ver 2 Breakout box I am resurrecting. 425, 3 axis steppers with self contained router. To my recollection my engineer back in 07 could never get them working either when it was new.
I can do most everything I need to so far, but can't get the diagnostic page to show input LED's.
I have gone to the pin Input page and set up the XYZ home, tried every option, ++, -- etc. auto detect never sees the switches.
I can reverse switch operation on that page and then the LED"S will all light up, but never go out, but the system then alerts me that my switch operation is backwards and will auto correct it for me. Then the LED's are all out and still no input.
I have checked that each switch has 5 volts at the switch and breakout board. They are now wired for normally closed.
I used the same connections it came with Pin 10, pin 11 Pin 12 and I added at pin 15 for the E stop which also has a resistor, also wired NC. All have Pull up resistors at the input on the Breakout board. Other side of switch goes to Vcc neg. The VCC + goes only to one end of all the pull-up resistors, the other end of the resistors go to the terminal strip as does each switch respectively.
The only thing I see wrong so far is the driver test. At first it reads "Pulsing too fast", then grabs the system for a test and shows excellent as it runs the test. Don't know if this is the issue. I do see a few high pulse blips during the test, which I understand should not be so high.
Any ideas out there. I tried a different 25 pin port cabling but no change in status., Win XP Pro, so 32 bit, No other programs deliberately running except for something like Estlcam or control panel now and then.
Port 1 address looks good at 0x378, no port 2 to my knowledge, but tried that any way. I haven't checked the voltage thru the parallel cable yet. Kernel speed set to 25000, pulse freq readout is 24995. On Diagnostics screen Port 1 pins 4567&8 are lit green
I am trying to get my home switches set up, and can probably fake it, but want to eventually make a set-up using input to locate the work piece with aluminum tape and an alligator clip and know this at least requires an input. Not sure if I need anything else.
I don't know how to attach the XML I am using, but have a copy.
Anyone have any ideas??

Ken Gibbs
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri May 05, 2017 2:07 pm

Re: Home switches and Inputs NG

Post by Ken Gibbs »

Mach 3 software, just in case it was not clear!

Ken Gibbs
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri May 05, 2017 2:07 pm

Re: Home switches and Inputs NG

Post by Ken Gibbs »

Hi All, I guess it takes time to get replies, but while waiting I discovered that the parallel d25 cable(s) were short a few wires inside. No input wires at 10 12 13 15 etc.
Got full 25 wire parallel cable an fixed a couple of bad connections on the spade lugs to the micro switches.
Now that that works I have motor stall issues, working on speed and accel per axis.
Next need to figure out why the x axis won't go home, but I have to keep hitting ref all zero to finally get it home.
Thanks

rungemach
Posts: 460
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 8:24 am
Location: Sarasota, Florida

Re: Home switches and Inputs NG

Post by rungemach »

Hi Ken

I would imagine that most folks here do not use Mach3, as it was phased out with the introduction of the proprietary controllers. Personally, I think it is far superior to the new setup.

I started with the same setup as you have, and chose to keep Mach3 and upgrade the electronics instead.

The motor stall issues you have are not unusual with the Xylotec (or other inexpensive driver electronics), depending on the motor, and the acceleration and speed you have configured in Mach3.

You may want to consider replacing the xylotec with a gecko g540. That setup offers 10x micro stepping and better motor tuning to eliminate resonance effects , etc.. The Xylotec boards were somewhat fragile and would cook an output driver from time to time. The g540 is pretty much bulletproof.

After that you would be limited by how fast your pc can deliver high quality pulses on the parallel port. You may find that speeds above 80 in/min get a bit shaky. A smoothstepper board ( usb or ethernet) will solve that problem.

Your machine will not be accurate at fast speeds unless you reinforce it. Too much flex in the whole thing.

Hope this helps a bit

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