Pausing/stopping the router

Discussion/questions about software used with your CNC Shark and programming issues

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Wolffie1
Posts: 270
Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2012 3:46 pm

Re: Pausing/stopping the router

Post by Wolffie1 »

Thank you for that tip, Joe.

Well, here is an example for you and I haven't even got the look I want as yet.
EyeOfHorusPreview.jpg
Size is 550mmx375mm

Cheers
Wolffie

Wolffie1
Posts: 270
Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2012 3:46 pm

Re: Pausing/stopping the router

Post by Wolffie1 »

I got the look I want but look at the the cutting time, I definitely need to use Joe's tips
EyeOfHorusPreviewFinished.jpg
Cheers
Wolffie

jeb2cav
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Re: Pausing/stopping the router

Post by jeb2cav »

For those reading this thread and wondering about Bill's point about only 3D carving what you need to - for example if the 3D component is in the middle of a flat pocket - give this post a look - http://www.cncsharktalk.com/viewtopic.p ... =382#p1944.

Related to this with regard to pockets - I got a tip early on about pockets - create 2 toolpaths. Be aggressive in your depth of cut on the first one, and take it to 0.05 or so of the total depth. Then run one that starts at the depth of the 1st one, and removes that last 0.05

Wolffie1
Posts: 270
Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2012 3:46 pm

Re: Pausing/stopping the router

Post by Wolffie1 »

jeb2cav wrote:For those reading this thread and wondering about Bill's point about only 3D carving what you need to - for example if the 3D component is in the middle of a flat pocket - give this post a look - http://www.cncsharktalk.com/viewtopic.p ... =382#p1944.

Related to this with regard to pockets - I got a tip early on about pockets - create 2 toolpaths. Be aggressive in your depth of cut on the first one, and take it to 0.05 or so of the total depth. Then run one that starts at the depth of the 1st one, and removes that last 0.05
That's how I managed to cut the time down quite a bit.
However, there is no way you can reduce the time for 3D cuts so it will be nice to be able to let the machine have a rest. I am sure the router will appreciate that as much as my neighbours ;)

Cheers
Wolffie

Wolffie1
Posts: 270
Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2012 3:46 pm

Re: Pausing/stopping the router

Post by Wolffie1 »

If anyone is interested, I havee just put the 2 G-Codee files side by side in a Word document and marked them so it is easy to see how it is done.
Cheers
Wolffie
DwellExcersise.docx
(85.13 KiB) Downloaded 248 times

BillK
Posts: 885
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Re: Pausing/stopping the router

Post by BillK »

Hi Wolffie,

My guess is you have this picture that you imported into Aspire and used the command to directly convert it into a 3D carving. What size ball end mill did you choose and what is the stepover?

You have a few other options to lower the carving time. Here's your picture with some tracings on it.
image.jpg
Instead of one long 3D carving file you could break this up to a few smaller ones by using the tracing method Joe described for the full shape, then adding some vectors to break it down like in A shown on he picture.

One of the reasons it is taking so long to carve is the pebbled surface finish like in the B labeled area. If that's what you are going for then it will take a long time with a lot of up and down movements. You could use the smoothing tool in the sculpting menu to take that to a smoother surface which will cut faster. The other option is to trace the whole section B and create a 3D component. Both will carve faster then the pebbled finish.
BillK
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Wolffie1
Posts: 270
Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2012 3:46 pm

Re: Pausing/stopping the router

Post by Wolffie1 »

ohiococonut wrote:Joe,
With what you're proposing wouldn't it be just as simple to hit the pause button and just shut the router off?
I had a long cut last night, (+10hrs) and had contemplated doing this but already had several hours cutting so I just let it run. I also had concerns about the stepper motors being able to maintain their position for several hours.

Hmmmmmm...............would it be possible to pause the cut, note the position of the router and stop cutting. Then edit the g-code to remove the lines before the paused state, re-position the router to where you initially stopped and start cutting again? That is what I was prepared to do, just in case we had a power cut or something You could also just leave the router where you paused it. Just thinking out loud here.
It got too late for me last night, there was still a couple of hours left, so I waited until the router lifted for the next cut, hit pause, stopped the router, noted the line number, just in case and went to bed.
This morning it was still sitting at the same spot waiting for me to resume cutting, router had cooled down and was happy too.
Interesting observation, whilst the machine was paused, the timer kept counting, so when I came back this morning, it told me the machine had been running for 25+ hours although 11 of those was pause time :)

I have just ordered a water cooled spindle, I do not believe a router appreciates running for such a length of time plus they are so much quieter :o

Cheers
Wolffie

Wolffie1
Posts: 270
Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2012 3:46 pm

Re: Pausing/stopping the router

Post by Wolffie1 »

BillK wrote:Hi Wolffie,

My guess is you have this picture that you imported into Aspire and used the command to directly convert it into a 3D carving.Actually I did a lot of work in CorelDraw before it was exported into Aspire. What size ball end mill did you choose and what is the stepover?

You have a few other options to lower the carving time. Here's your picture with some tracings on it.
image.jpg
Instead of one long 3D carving file you could break this up to a few smaller ones by using the tracing method Joe described for the full shape, then adding some vectors to break it down like in A shown on he picture.

One of the reasons it is taking so long to carve is the pebbled surface finish like in the B labeled area. If that's what you are going for then it will take a long time with a lot of up and down movements. You could use the smoothing tool in the sculpting menu to take that to a smoother surface which will cut faster. The other option is to trace the whole section B and create a 3D component. Both will carve faster then the pebbled finish.
It has to look as close as possible to the original artefact, hence the pebbled surface, which is actually gemstones.
I did pocket out all the smooth parts of the project, the rest is 3D components.
The length of the file doesn't really worry me, I was only wondering whether it was possible to pause the machine overnight, it is a rather large project, as large as the HD can handle.
I do not like to leave the machine unattended.
I did learn a few good tips in the replies :)

Cheers
Wolffie

ps Joe
60 seconds are the same whether Imperial or metric :)

What does F2540.0 mean?
ps.ps
Never mind,I found out it means feed rate :)
Last edited by Wolffie1 on Fri Nov 23, 2012 2:16 am, edited 1 time in total.

tonydude
Posts: 1581
Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2010 9:23 am
Location: Buffalo,NY

Re: Pausing/stopping the router

Post by tonydude »

Wolffie,

Where did you get the water cooled spindle from? How are you going to attach it to the shark?

Tony
Buffalo,NY

"What will matter is not what you bought but what you built; not what you got, but what you gave”

Aspire 11.015, photo vcarve, cnc mako shark extended bed with the new upgraded HD 5 gantry with Led pendent.

Wolffie1
Posts: 270
Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2012 3:46 pm

Re: Pausing/stopping the router

Post by Wolffie1 »

tonydude wrote:Wolffie,

Where did you get the water cooled spindle from? How are you going to attach it to the shark?

Tony
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... OU:AU:3160
I bought a full set of collets.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... TM:US:1123
Free shipping to the States, I think.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... OU:AU:3160
I am going to make a new bracket in aluminium. The water cooler will be sitting by the base of the Shark.

Cheers
Wolffie

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