Superbowl
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Superbowl
If anyone wants to make these serving/cutting boards for Superbowl, here's the formula:
Bob
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- cutting board football.eps
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"Focus"
Antonie Van Leeuwenhoek (Developer of the microscope.)
Antonie Van Leeuwenhoek (Developer of the microscope.)
Re: Superbowl
I have yet to get to the V carve inlay with my machine. Would this be easy enough to start with ?
Tim
Tim
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Consultingwoodworker
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Re: Superbowl
That would be a great way to start inlaying. The rounded corners of the inlay profile are the easiest to work with. I have been doing CNC inlays for more than 15 years. Here are some tips I have picked up:
1) Use the same vectors for both the pocket and the inlay. The Inlay toolpath setting offers an "offset" option between the pocket and inlay. I have found that about 0.015" offset is an excellent starting point, but you want to increase the size of the pocket and decrease the size of the inlay equally, about 0.007" each.
2) I have found that using the tapered ball nose end mill (the typical carving bit) works very well. The taper means that the edges of the pocket are slightly sloped, and that the inlay will have the same taper. This makes for a wedge fit between the two, resulting in a very clean looking joint line. The inlay must be flipped upside down to fit properly. If the inlay is symmetrical, this is no issue for programming. If the inlay is irregular, like those below, you will need to mirror the inlay vectors in VCarve before toolpathing.
3) run a test in some scrap pieces before committing any quality materials to your inlay to insure your settings. You want the pocket to be very slightly more shallow than the thickness of the inlay.
This is an inlay of the islands of Venice that I made as a thank you gift for a friend.
Ralph
1) Use the same vectors for both the pocket and the inlay. The Inlay toolpath setting offers an "offset" option between the pocket and inlay. I have found that about 0.015" offset is an excellent starting point, but you want to increase the size of the pocket and decrease the size of the inlay equally, about 0.007" each.
2) I have found that using the tapered ball nose end mill (the typical carving bit) works very well. The taper means that the edges of the pocket are slightly sloped, and that the inlay will have the same taper. This makes for a wedge fit between the two, resulting in a very clean looking joint line. The inlay must be flipped upside down to fit properly. If the inlay is symmetrical, this is no issue for programming. If the inlay is irregular, like those below, you will need to mirror the inlay vectors in VCarve before toolpathing.
3) run a test in some scrap pieces before committing any quality materials to your inlay to insure your settings. You want the pocket to be very slightly more shallow than the thickness of the inlay.
This is an inlay of the islands of Venice that I made as a thank you gift for a friend.
Ralph