What does your Shark Pro HD sit on?

[NewAgent45]

I don't have as much space as you. Originally, I was planning on a smaller machine I added a work bench that is now horse shoe shape my adding the portion shown in the pictures. The bench has rear 2x6 support lag bolted to the wall studs and a front support is also a 2x6 and there are 2X4 cross members placed on 16" centers. The bench top is 1/2 plywood screwed down to the supports with 3/4 MDF glued on top. The front bench legs are 4X4's. When I decided to get a bigger machine I extended the bench forward as shown in the picture. I used two buttresses which are attached to the 4x4 legs using a piece of 1/2 inch all thread at the top and lag bolts at the bottom. The bench where the machine sits is extended to 36" from the wall. My bench is level and flat. I did not bolt my machine to the bench. There is a space board at the wall to allow a little clearance of the table from the wall. I added a couple L-shaped blocks which are screwed down to the bench. These are probably not necessary as the machine is heavy enough and does not slide easy. These blocks were added after the pictures were taken.

After saying this it does sound like you already have a strong suitable table for the job. As I recall the Machine weighs about 160#.

My machine was new and delivered with the gantry as a separate component. My wife and I were easily able to lift the table and set it on the bench. Then we lifted the gantry as a separate item.

In my opinion the machine does not have to be dead level. However, the machine table should be co-planer with the spindle. There are a lot of posts on this forum regarding machine setup. Some recommend disassembly of the table and adding reinforcing and leveling. I didn't want to take the chance of voiding the factory warranty. So I used a sheet of MDF and anchored it to the table with nylon bolts using little 1/4-20 SST cleats. I cut T-Slots in the MDF with the machine and surfaced planed the entire sheet with a 1 1/4 inch planning bit. I also had to shim the front of the router mount up to make the spindle perpendicular the table. You can tell if it's off by observing stripping when you surface plane. Originally I used this piece of MDF for a spoil board when cutting through material. I stopped this practice after a year and now I keep some inexpensive 1/4 MDF on hand for cutting through. I now have a collection of different sizes I reuse.

Here is a link to one of my posts regarding the spoilboard. http://www.cncsharktalk.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=4069

I don't consider myself as and expert here as I have only been doing this stuff for about two years now.
I would definitely read some of the other posts regarding machine setup.

I hope this helps and have a great day!

.... Rod

[jimily]

Thanks Rod for the time and info, the goat stands have to go back to being used for goats soon though otherwise... However, I do have extra lumber and plywood, I'll make a good cabinet for it with some storage for all the bits and bobs. Maybe even practice making Dove tails on the Shark instead of the Tablesaw. Is there anything this tool can't do?

Oh and I still need to go through the leveling process, probably once the backplate arrives I'll do it all at once.

Off to sketchup!
Jim

[jimily]

You don't also have the vacuum cleaner named Shark too do you? And enjoy your new machine! It sounds like you are all set to make some chips!

I do want to have a place for all the bits, and I need more practice building carcasses for cabinets as well. I'm just messing around in sketchup at the moment, some inspiration is bound to hit me.

Thanks!
Jim

[bill z]

Recently, I bought a used Shark HD Pro that was already bolted to a table with locking swivel casters. The table is a standard 2X4 workbench construction where all of the joints were glued and screwed. It came with a dust cabinet using 2X2s as the frame and 1/4 plywood as sides and top except for the front where there is a Plexiglas door hinged to pull up. The work table is real tight and it doesn’t sway. However, with some cuts the whole thing wants to walk a little if I don’t lock the casters.

The controller is in its own wood box fastened just under the table top and to the left where the emergency stop is easy to get to. A pull out keyboard stand is to the right of the controller where it can be pushed back out of the way when not in use.

The whole thing just fit in the back of my Avalanche. We used 2X12 ramps to get it in and out. It was heavy. I did not know the Shark was 160# by its self.

[bill z]

Recently, I bought a used Shark HD Pro that was already bolted to a table with locking swivel casters. The table is a standard 2X4 workbench construction where all of the joints were glued and screwed. It came with a dust cabinet using 2X2s as the frame and 1/4 plywood as sides and top except for the front where there is a Plexiglas door hinged to pull up. The work table is real tight and it doesn’t sway. However, with some cuts the whole thing wants to walk a little if I don’t lock the casters.

The controller is in its own wood box fastened just under the table top and to the left where the emergency stop is easy to get to. A pull out keyboard stand is to the right of the controller where it can be pushed back out of the way when not in use.

The whole thing just fit in the back of my Avalanche. We used 2X12 ramps to get it in and out. It was heavy. I did not know the Shark was 160# by its self.

WOW! That picture sure looks shaky.

[jimily]

That's a nice example, thanks Bill for the pic. I'm almost there!
Jim