CNC Shark Forum

I've put a spoil board on my new shark SD110. Since I've done that all my cuts have been too deep! I think I might have figured it out. When setting depth of material, do you take into account the thickness of the spoil board too? Sorry if this sounds dumb! I am very, very new to cnc! I'm very excited about all the things that you can do with it. In general I'm having trouble with getting the depth of cut correct. . Any help would be greatly appreciated!

no, spoilboard thickness is not relevant.

fwiw, my cuts are always a little too deep on my hd3 every single time i zero it. i’ve called next wave and they have no explanation.

Hello and yes, you're correct by never including the spoil board with material thickness. So, I have a question for you. what kind of spoil board did you make for the Shark? I just bought a Shark SD110 and wondering what spoiler board to go with. Suggestions welcomed. Thanks in advance.

I figured out the problem. When using the dust boot for some reason it affects my carvings. I took the boot off and have not had a bit of a problem! Don't know why. Unfortunately, no dust collection!

To Max,
I'm using MDF. From what I've read it seems to be best to use.

Also in addition to the deep of your "cut deep" also make sure your "start deep" is zero.

Very new to CNC. Quick question - what is the best way to attach my 3/4" MDF spoil board to my Shark SD110? Granted the machine has the t-slots, but how or what is the best way of aligning the slots so I can use plastic bolts to attach the board. Should I just use a larger spoiler board than my piece of work and clamp it down to the t-slots?
Thanks for my newbie question
Jay

After 3 years and 250 projects on my HD510 it was time to level the spoil board. I used nylon 1" 1/4x20 round head nuts and bolts 9 of them. I am currently posting a video on youtube should be there in a day or two of my process of replacing the old one.

1. Keep the spoil board 1" undersize of your max carriage limits. put a vbit in your machine and see how far it will go in each direction until it stops and then back off of that a quarter inch. Make a mark on your alum extrustion table and do the same process on all 4 corners. Then cut a piece of mdf that is 1" smaller than that. I put 9 nylon bolts in my 24x24 mdf board. Recessed the nut socket 5/16"

Make your pilot holes for the bolts a bit larger so they will slip in easy and put the mdf board with the holes at the edge of the alumn table and insert 3 bolts in the slots. Slide on the board at the end and get it to fit over the 3 bolts which is a bit trickly. Once done slide the mdf with the 3 bolts in their holes in towards the center of the machine. Then add 3 more bolts in the slots and get them to fit into the mdf at a slight angle. Once you have that slide mdf in more towards the front of the machine and put the last 3 bolts into the slots and wiggle them into place. Spray silicon in the 3 slots so the mdf will move easier. Once all the bolts are in place loosely put on the nuts. slide the mdf into position so it's just inside all your outside limits on your carriage and tighten the nylon nuts.

I have a 3/4" mdf bolted to my extruded cnc table. I then used a 2" flattening bit and ran a pocket pass over the whole top to flatten it. Then glued a 3/4x24x24 piece of particle board on top of that and used weights to hold it down. I also use a 24x24 inch piece of quarter inch luan plywood as my spoil board for cutting into on top of that. I attach that with 23 gauage pin nails. When it' s cut up I pop it off with a screw driver as a pry bar and turn it over and use it again. Works great. I don't use clamps just boards, jigs lots of jigs and screws (brass) and pin nails.

Here is the link to the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QTSCab_lwD4

I realize this post is "stale" however, after installing spoiler boards on my SD110 I realized that when the machine move to pre-position when starting a new carve the Z axis raises past the limit (SD110) does not have a limit switch.. this action actually changes the Z setting so when the router lowers and engages - it goes too deep into the wood.

After installing the spoiler boards I zeroed Z the same way I always did. The issue is resolved by removing the spoiler boards.

Question - what setting controls the height that Z retracts to prior to starting a project cut?