Pro to HD upgrades

Discussion about the CNC Shark Pro Plus

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winreboot
Posts: 9
Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2011 2:54 pm

Pro to HD upgrades

Post by winreboot »

Ok, today my long time awaiting upgrade started. I think there are 3 stages to get the Pro to be running as it should. (Again big thanks to Bob for shearing his knowledge and helping me on this.)

Stage 1, get the table level and supported in the middle if oem blue table is used. They are very strong but when applying pressure from clamps what I notice they might go up only in the middle of the table. Fix is to support them with aluminum bar under the middle of the table.
Stage 2, I think is to upgrade Y axis to supported rails. This would be also good time to upgrade the lead screw when having the gantry all a part.
Stage 3, this should be upgrading the X axis to supported rails etc.. It might be more difficult then Y axis but this would make the ultimate upgrade.

I'll post my progress on the Y axis upgrade to supported rails.

Parts that are needed for the upgrade. I'm sure there could be many ways of getting this installed but I'll list what steps I took to get this done. (I might miss few things that I had already in hand but this is what I remember so far)

Two peaces of 1/2" x 2" 6061-T6511 Flat Bar x 32" ~$40 (ebay)
2 Supported Rails + 4 Block 20mm x 940mm Set ~$160 http://www.glacern.com/sbr (SBR20-940-SET)
HDPE or aluminum sheet 1/2 thick. 24x24 is large enough.. HDPE ~$30 (ebay)
16 screws M6 16mm to support bearing blocks + washers ~$9 (homedepo)
24 screws 1/4 1.5 inch long with nuts and washers to support rails ~$10 (homedepo)
6 screws 1/4 1.125 inch long for z axis mount and nuts

First cut out the sides and the backing before taking the gantry a part.
Image

Measure how much you are going to cut the rail. I put the old rails side by side and mark the length. You want the bar to be longer and the support shorter by at list 3/4. As shown in the next pic.
Image
Image

Then, cut the 1/2 x 2" bars to the same length as the support rails and make matching holes in them.
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Take out the oe sides and install the new ones.
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Try fitting it on the gantry and make holes in the back of it.
Image

This is where I got so far this morning and will post more later :)

David
Last edited by winreboot on Wed Feb 22, 2012 10:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Loudspeakerboy
Posts: 106
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 3:54 pm

Re: Pro to HD upgrades

Post by Loudspeakerboy »

Great shots! Good progress so far.

Can't wait to see more!

Thanks.. Michael

rungemach
Posts: 460
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 8:24 am
Location: Sarasota, Florida

Re: Pro to HD upgrades

Post by rungemach »

A quick tip for the z axis router holder installation/removal is to replace the loose nuts in the z axis bearing blocks with t-nuts that are fastened into the back of the bearing block.

I drilled the existing bolt holes all the way through to the back, and put the t-nuts on. That way you can unbolt the router holder assembly easily from the front, and replace it without having to try and seat the nuts in the bearing block. (really awkward to reach). Slightly longer bolts are needed to reach through the block to the t-nuts, but I feel this arrangement is a bit stronger as the t-nut has a larger surface to press against the plastic and is grabbing the entire width of the bearing block.

Bob
Attachments
T-nuts on z axis slide
T-nuts on z axis slide

winreboot
Posts: 9
Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2011 2:54 pm

Re: Pro to HD upgrades

Post by winreboot »

Yea, the z axis router enclosed was a pain to re-assemble but it all finally done. The whole upgrade is very easy and the biggest issue for me was getting correct screws, had to made 3 trips to home depot. I'll update the parts list. I didn't cut anything yet as I'm waiting for my Dewalt router to come in but when putting pressure on the z axis it's noticeably stronger. The gantry is rock solid. Here are some pixcs.

I could not get to those two screws from the other side, so I made the holes on the other side to access the nuts.
Image

Here is the enclosure mounted. I windup using M6 16mm bolts with washers under them. They are flushed with the board so they don't stick out.
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Picture from the sides. Those screws were 1/4 1.25" in length I had 1.5" long and they were too long had to cut them to size. This was little time consuming.
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All assembled
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And here it's all ready to go.
Image

All in all this was not hard to do, I took my time making sure I got everything right. I'm very happy with the outcome.

cnick60
Posts: 49
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2011 8:13 pm

Re: Pro to HD upgrades

Post by cnick60 »

Hey Winreboot,
When you post the new parts list would you consider sharing the toolpath file for the "Z" parts

winreboot
Posts: 9
Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2011 2:54 pm

Re: Pro to HD upgrades

Post by winreboot »

Was testing today and I'm getting more consistent cuts. When cutting a packets I don't see the lines in the packet as I used to. I also changed from bosch to dewalt router and like how quiet and strong it is. After running multiple tests today with new router and now fully supported rails on x axis I'm very happy.

David

Loudspeakerboy
Posts: 106
Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 3:54 pm

Re: Pro to HD upgrades

Post by Loudspeakerboy »

David,

How is that Y axis upgrade coming along?

Thanks.. Michael

winreboot
Posts: 9
Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2011 2:54 pm

Re: Pro to HD upgrades

Post by winreboot »

For now I'm just enjoying my last upgrade and will slowly collect parts for y axis. Just want to share that Dewalt 611 router is awesome. It is so quiet that I assumed it's running at lower rpm's then the sound it makes. Also the LED light on it is very cool too. One think I don't like that it does not have precision collet but I heard precisionbits will be releasing precision collet and nut for Dewalt 611 in summer.

David

rungemach
Posts: 460
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 8:24 am
Location: Sarasota, Florida

Re: Pro to HD upgrades

Post by rungemach »

Here is a picture of my Y axis refit, so you can get an idea on how it can be done.

Mine used 2 pieces of 6 x 6 x .375 standard aluminum angle and one piece of 2 x 2 x .125 square aluminum tube.

The result is very strong and can be built two ways.

1) cut the new fully supported bearing bars to the factory length and insert them in the stock holes.
This will cost you about 2 inches of Y travel as the new bearing blocks are spaced farther apart than factory to gain rigidity.

2) Leave the bearing bars at their 37" length as bought and open up clearance holes in the front and rear shark panels and you will gain 2 inches of Y travel over stock. I am getting just shy of 27" travel in the Y.

The white supports are cut on the shark and position the rod at exactly the stock factory height. The bearing support extrusion fastens down through the white support blocks down into the base and also bolt to the front and rear panels, holding the bearing rod firmly in "stock" position The result is a very strong Y axis in both up/down and sideways forces..

You gain some height options as well and if you mount your gantry sides as shown, you will gain around an inch of z height with the potential to go higher by choosing different holes.

I have dxf's and Vecric files for this refit as well as the x axis refit in aluminum or plastic version (shown above). My x axis was done in aluminum a long time ago, Dave just did his in black hdpe to match the original look. If anyone is interested in the info just send me a PM.

Bob
Attachments
shark Y axis refit with fully supported bearings
shark Y axis refit with fully supported bearings

sk8nmike
Posts: 389
Joined: Thu Dec 01, 2011 7:35 am
Location: Carrollton, Tx

Re: Pro to HD upgrades

Post by sk8nmike »

Was there a reason for the white support blocks other than just keeping the height the same?

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