Some hints for more accurate cuts.

[FixitMike]

I've found that the deflection of the Shark Pro Plus head can push the bit as much as 1/32" off the true path when making a full width cut. Especially when plunging with a downcut bit.

My solution for profiles, pockets, and holes is to make a roughing cut that leaves about .030" excess material, and then make a final single full depth pass cut to the exact profile. This also eliminates the multiple pass tracks that occur.

An easy way to do this is to use a different layers and colors in V-carve for the roughing and final cuts. Just make an offset vector for the roughing cut .

Note that if you have tabs, you have to put them in the same places for both the rough and final cuts.

[4DThinker]

Excellent tip, FixitMike! I've been learning alot about the accuracy the Shark isn't up to despite being able to move .001 at a time. Runout of the collet/bit and flex in the whole system has caused plenty of frustration for me. I basically just design the need to be so precise out of the parts I'm cutting.

[mngld92]

To get more accuracy out of your machine you could also visit the shark store at nextwave's website and get a precision collet and precision bits for your machine. This could also save some headaches.

[4DThinker]

To get more accuracy out of your machine you could also visit the shark store at nextwave's website and get a precision collet and precision bits for your machine. This could also save some headaches.

Thanks. I already have purchased and installed the Precision collet. Bought the whole kit from Precision Bits. Updated the controller software for more precision in setting home position. Been milling the area I'm going to use with a 1/2" bit taking .02 or so off to make sure the table is flat to the CNC. The 1/8" and 1/4" wood I'm cutting from clamps down tight to the table across the milled area. Even after all that I'll have some parts that don't get cut through, some that are cut so deep the bridges I set are cut through, and slots I cut are usually a hair (.02 or .04) larger than designed/expected and leave loose fitting joints. Half-lapped areas are often cut just a bit deeper than half, despite micrometer measurement of the wood being cut, and setting a pocket depth of exactly half that.

It is likely that just clamping down the board deflects the table some, leading to depth errors closer to the clamps. I'll attribute my oversized slots to bits that are a hair overside from their advertised diameter. The precision I'm wanting is only needed because I'm making very small scale parts, and hasn't been a problem at all when making full sized furniture parts. I do get better (more precise) results on the huge multicam router at work, but realize the Shark cost a small fraction of it's cost. Still, I'd love better results from my Shark.