I'm creating an outdoor sign, nothing big, just 24wx12h.
I got a piece of cedar from one of the big box stores and started routing the sign.
The wood is not coming off as dust, but some dust and a lot of frayed strands. Looks like string cheeze, with very frayed edges. Ultimately, I had to stop the machine, as the surface looks like a mop head with all the frayed edges...
I choose cedar cause the sign is going outside, is there a better wood choice? I've only used the shark HD4 a couple of times with pine and oak with no issues.
Cedar Wood Issue
Moderators: al wolford, sbk, Bob, Kayvon
Re: Cedar Wood Issue
Redwood is a good outdoor wood. May be a little difficult to find at the big box stores.
It may be easier if you reduce the depth, width and speed you cut each pass with the cedar. Cedar is a has a different fiber so adjustments are needed.
It may be easier if you reduce the depth, width and speed you cut each pass with the cedar. Cedar is a has a different fiber so adjustments are needed.
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Re: Cedar Wood Issue
I've been cutting some local red cedar with great results - using a 1/4" 60 deg V bit for all the cuts to eliminate bit changes.
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Jim Creighton, Partner
Heirloom Table Home, Hopkinsville, KY
Heirloom Table Home, Hopkinsville, KY
Re: Cedar Wood Issue
I make signs using nothing but Cedar.
The Cedar is usually finished on one side. I have found that if you try to carve the unfinished side it will splinter & fray.
Also I have found, that usually, any cut deeper than 3/16 0.1875 will cause the problem you are having if you are using a round nosed bit.
I suggest you try a 60 or 90 degree bit, at a depth of no more than 3/16"
The Cedar is usually finished on one side. I have found that if you try to carve the unfinished side it will splinter & fray.
Also I have found, that usually, any cut deeper than 3/16 0.1875 will cause the problem you are having if you are using a round nosed bit.
I suggest you try a 60 or 90 degree bit, at a depth of no more than 3/16"
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Re: Cedar Wood Issue
Bob D,The Cedar is usually finished on one side. I have found that if you try to carve the unfinished side it will splinter & fray.
When you say finished is that planed finish or a sanded finish???
Reason for asking: I usually purchase cedar fence boards (which are cheaper) they are completely unfinished.
So if I was to plane and sand finish edges (for mating) and one side (for CNC Carving) I would have less Splinter & Fraying using a sharp 60 to 90 degree v-bit at a depth of no more than 3/16", CORRECT?
Sharkcutup
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Re: Cedar Wood Issue
I just made 2 signs, 1 was 24x19 out of Cedar.
I used 2x6 Cedar and plained them down to about 1". Then i ran it thru my drum sander and then sanded down to 180.
I used a 60 degree V-bit and it came out beautiful. Just a little finish sanding after it was done carving.
I used 2x6 Cedar and plained them down to about 1". Then i ran it thru my drum sander and then sanded down to 180.
I used a 60 degree V-bit and it came out beautiful. Just a little finish sanding after it was done carving.
Re: Cedar Wood Issue
Sharkcutup
I have no experience using fence boards, so I don't know if sanding them will help.
It does take some time to work a smooth finish on the unfinished side.
If you use both sides of a board, it would seem to be easier to buy with one side finished, cut your time in half.
I use 1"x 8"x 8' or 12' boards, one side does have a factory finish.
I am assuming it is a planed finish.
After it is carved, it only takes a couple of minutes with a palm sander to clean it up so I can put a finish coat on it.
They cost about $17.00 a board, and all I have to do is cut it to size and carve it.
I can not say that buying fence boards, and then sanding one side, or both, to a smooth finish, would be cost efficient, given the time & labor involved.
I am only guessing here, but I think you would have to take at least 1/16th off a side to get to a smooth finish.
Bob
I have no experience using fence boards, so I don't know if sanding them will help.
It does take some time to work a smooth finish on the unfinished side.
If you use both sides of a board, it would seem to be easier to buy with one side finished, cut your time in half.
I use 1"x 8"x 8' or 12' boards, one side does have a factory finish.
I am assuming it is a planed finish.
After it is carved, it only takes a couple of minutes with a palm sander to clean it up so I can put a finish coat on it.
They cost about $17.00 a board, and all I have to do is cut it to size and carve it.
I can not say that buying fence boards, and then sanding one side, or both, to a smooth finish, would be cost efficient, given the time & labor involved.
I am only guessing here, but I think you would have to take at least 1/16th off a side to get to a smooth finish.
Bob