THE NEW MAKO IS HERE!!!
Moderators: al wolford, sbk, Bob, Kayvon
Re: THE NEW MAKO IS HERE!!!
Thank you Buc and Wolffie.
I saw these files and read everything that I could find on the forum. Cutting out the sockets seems easy but creating a 3D component in Aspire in order to make the tails seems difficult. Let's say that I want a tail that is 1/2" wide and 1/2" tall and want to use an 1/8" end mill. So, the top of the sockets would have a radius in the corners that is equal to 1/8" or the radius of the bit.
So, I can start with a square vector that is 1/2" square then create a shape from this square vector. So, I can model a curved profile with a base height of 0.375", select 90 degrees and limit the overall height to 0.500". This gives me a nice dome shape but I don't want a dome. I actually want an arched top for the tail and not a dome.
I guess that I could vertically stack and add successively smaller blocks to form a crude arch, I could use the smoothing tool to smooth the resulting staircase. It would seem like there should be a better approach to creating an arched top component in Aspire.
I bet someone else has already done this in a better way.
I saw these files and read everything that I could find on the forum. Cutting out the sockets seems easy but creating a 3D component in Aspire in order to make the tails seems difficult. Let's say that I want a tail that is 1/2" wide and 1/2" tall and want to use an 1/8" end mill. So, the top of the sockets would have a radius in the corners that is equal to 1/8" or the radius of the bit.
So, I can start with a square vector that is 1/2" square then create a shape from this square vector. So, I can model a curved profile with a base height of 0.375", select 90 degrees and limit the overall height to 0.500". This gives me a nice dome shape but I don't want a dome. I actually want an arched top for the tail and not a dome.
I guess that I could vertically stack and add successively smaller blocks to form a crude arch, I could use the smoothing tool to smooth the resulting staircase. It would seem like there should be a better approach to creating an arched top component in Aspire.
I bet someone else has already done this in a better way.
Re: THE NEW MAKO IS HERE!!!
I believe that I found what I want. I willl use two rail sweep and the profile that I wish to use for the tail.
Re: THE NEW MAKO IS HERE!!!
Attached is one possible approach and undoubtedly not the best. This is just the tails part. I am thinking that I can use 1/8" ballnose bit so that I can maintain the same radius in all corners. I could use the same 1/8" ballnose bit for the sockets.
I am having trouble creating a roughing toolpath that doesn't distort the tails. I am a little concerned about the gaps at the extreme inside of the dovetails but maybe these won't show too badly.
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
Ed
I am having trouble creating a roughing toolpath that doesn't distort the tails. I am a little concerned about the gaps at the extreme inside of the dovetails but maybe these won't show too badly.
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
Ed
- Attachments
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- New.Dovetail2.crv3d
- (219 KiB) Downloaded 674 times
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- New.Dovetail2.pdf
- (596.38 KiB) Downloaded 669 times
Re: THE NEW MAKO IS HERE!!!
Okay ... here is my 1st attempt. Certainly not perfect but I can see where improvements may be made. I really like Aspire and my Mark Shark. ![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_e_smile.gif)
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_e_smile.gif)
Re: THE NEW MAKO IS HERE!!!
Here is how I created the original project. These dovetails were patterned after a Dovetail jig.
I designed the model of the tail starting at the bottom of the tail. The dovetail bit cuts a ½” circle; I added .015 to make up for what is lost when the tail is cut. It ends up approximately .49” across.
I used a depth of .455”. I Subtracted .25” from the desired socket depth and created a rectangle that was .205” below the midpoint of the circle. This gave me an actual cut of approximately .4” high. (See .pdf #1)
The bottom of the tail was extruded .27” at a 14 degree angle to create the top of the tail.
The sockets are keyhole cuts with a ½” 14 degree dovetail bit.
I have included the .stl files for a number of sizes of drawers. I have recently downloaded the trial version of Aspire and found that you can’t open a .stl file but you can import it. I haven’t had a chance to play with it much yet so I don’t know if you can edit them. I would be interested in finding out if you can and to what extend you can edit as this is the file format that the scanning probe uses.
Someone asked about 1/8” endmills, I live in Canada and Amazon sells Bosch, both in up and down spiral.
I designed the model of the tail starting at the bottom of the tail. The dovetail bit cuts a ½” circle; I added .015 to make up for what is lost when the tail is cut. It ends up approximately .49” across.
I used a depth of .455”. I Subtracted .25” from the desired socket depth and created a rectangle that was .205” below the midpoint of the circle. This gave me an actual cut of approximately .4” high. (See .pdf #1)
The bottom of the tail was extruded .27” at a 14 degree angle to create the top of the tail.
The sockets are keyhole cuts with a ½” 14 degree dovetail bit.
I have included the .stl files for a number of sizes of drawers. I have recently downloaded the trial version of Aspire and found that you can’t open a .stl file but you can import it. I haven’t had a chance to play with it much yet so I don’t know if you can edit them. I would be interested in finding out if you can and to what extend you can edit as this is the file format that the scanning probe uses.
Someone asked about 1/8” endmills, I live in Canada and Amazon sells Bosch, both in up and down spiral.
- Attachments
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- Drawer STL.zip
- (431.54 KiB) Downloaded 643 times
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- #1.pdf
- (14.04 KiB) Downloaded 673 times
Re: THE NEW MAKO IS HERE!!!
Hi JoDyJoDy wrote:Here is how I created the original project. These dovetails were patterned after a Dovetail jig.
I designed the model of the tail starting at the bottom of the tail. The dovetail bit cuts a ½” circle; I added .015 to make up for what is lost when the tail is cut. It ends up approximately .49” across.
I used a depth of .455”. I Subtracted .25” from the desired socket depth and created a rectangle that was .205” below the midpoint of the circle. This gave me an actual cut of approximately .4” high. (See .pdf #1)
The bottom of the tail was extruded .27” at a 14 degree angle to create the top of the tail.
The sockets are keyhole cuts with a ½” 14 degree dovetail bit.
I have included the .stl files for a number of sizes of drawers. I have recently downloaded the trial version of Aspire and found that you can’t open a .stl file but you can import it. I haven’t had a chance to play with it much yet so I don’t know if you can edit them. I would be interested in finding out if you can and to what extend you can edit as this is the file format that the scanning probe uses.
Someone asked about 1/8” endmills, I live in Canada and Amazon sells Bosch, both in up and down spiral.
Very nice work. You may "import" an STL file into Aspire. First, create a new project and define the workpiece size. Click on the "Modeling" tab and then under "Modeling Tools" select "Import a component or 3D model." Then use this to load one or more of your STL files. Each will create a new component. You may perform some scaling at the time of import and then press "OK". This will create a 3D component. Now double click on the component name in the component tree. You may also perform some edits in this mode. You may also use this component to merge with other components if you wish.
Your editing options are somewhat limited because you are working directly with 3D components in this mode. You can do the same with these as you can when you import 3D clip art.
I am new to all of this some mayby someone else can add to this process.
Enjoy Aspire ... I really like it.
Ed
Re: THE NEW MAKO IS HERE!!!
I am attempting to contact the person who makes the aluminum clamps. I have sent an email however it keeps coming back undeliverable. Thank you in advance for your help. WE have a brand new CNC HD Shark and the router is moving to much is just snapped a carbide bit in half. Please help.
Re: THE NEW MAKO IS HERE!!!
You should not clamp directly to the table, use a support block between the table and the clamp across the slots, then the force is across a greater area and the clamps will not slide plus you can clamp it tighter.
Cheers
Wolffie
Cheers
Wolffie
Re: THE NEW MAKO IS HERE!!!
mccammon1 wrote:I am attempting to contact the person who makes the aluminum clamps. I have sent an email however it keeps coming back undeliverable. Thank you in advance for your help. WE have a brand new CNC HD Shark and the router is moving to much is just snapped a carbide bit in half. Please help.
if you are looking for the aluminum router clamps, Sam's email is
business@dixiebillet.com
Re: THE NEW MAKO IS HERE!!!
The email address is:mccammon1 wrote:I am attempting to contact the person who makes the aluminum clamps. I have sent an email however it keeps coming back undeliverable. Thank you in advance for your help. WE have a brand new CNC HD Shark and the router is moving to much is just snapped a carbide bit in half. Please help.
business@dixiebillet.com
His name is Sam. Please let me know if you still have problems.
Ed